Question about LG Microwave Ovens

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Where to get clear diagram of magnetron circuitry with capacitor and diode circuits shown ?

Older models with separate power and timer rotary switches

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Below is a common diagram for LG Microwave "High Side" components.

The component below the Monitor Interlock Switch is the Transformer. So, on the High Side of the transformer, you can see all the components.

Can you give me the model number of the unit that you are wanting information?
Where to get clear diagram of magnetron circuitry  - 25638112-y3xfmd3gd40t5xgepemcew4d-4-0.jpg

Posted on Apr 10, 2015

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Google "LG microwave circuit" and select images. There are hundreds, you will need to zero in with a model number.

BTW before messing with the magnetron supply, be aware that it can hold a lethal voltage even when the oven is unplugged. You must know how to effectively discharge the HV capacitor before touching anything. For safety's sake never run the oven with the cover off.

Posted on Apr 10, 2015

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1 Answer

Microwave not heating


OK, get ready, this micrwave oven repair can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.
If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg

mwswitchtest2.jpgIf the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.
Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode.Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.
use the VOM. God bless you

cda6da83-bcc1-43d1-b62c-c75bf3a7296a.gif

Apr 04, 2013 | GE Profile Spacemaker XL 1800 36 in....

1 Answer

TMTSS2011


use VOM and test it. God bless youOK, get ready, this micrwave oven repair can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.
If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg

mwswitchtest2.jpgIf the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.
Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode.Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.
f18dace1-433a-42ea-9f4c-c39aa1868a12.gif

Apr 04, 2013 | Tricity Bendix Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My sanyo microwave model no em-s2297v is not heating the food the plate goes round the light comes on just not heating the food


follow the steps and fix it. God bless youwhere you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.
If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg

mwswitchtest2.jpgIf the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.
Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode.Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.
8d8301ca-fe5c-4be3-a199-5db244c9abf2.gif

Apr 02, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Does not heat up


see the details and proceed according and fix it. God bless you
This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg mwswitchtest2.jpg If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.



11_16_2012_1_12_42_am.jpg11_16_2012_1_13_02_am.gif

Nov 15, 2012 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

L.g microw wave all fanciton ok but no heating


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg mwswitchtest2.jpg If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.

9_27_2012_10_28_35_pm.gif

Sep 27, 2012 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

No heating


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg mwswitchtest2.jpg If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.

9_27_2012_10_31_52_pm.gif

Sep 27, 2012 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Has power, but not cooking.


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg mwswitchtest2.jpg If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.

Sep 23, 2012 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I have a GE microwave oven model J VM131K002. It came with the house and may be twenty years old (I have been here 11 years)


read carefully with common sense:
can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg mwswitchtest2.jpg If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.


9_10_2012_12_19_14_pm.gif

Sep 10, 2012 | GE Microwave Ovens

2 Answers

NO HEAT FROM MICROWAVE


use the common sense,clearly, logically, and fix it .God bless you
can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

mwswitchtest.jpg mwswitchtest2.jpg If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.


8_3_2012_9_39_12_am.gif

Aug 02, 2012 | Kenwood Microwave Ovens

2 Answers

Microwave runs but doesn't heat


If there is no noise at all, this suggests that the power transformer isn`t receiving power from the timer/control panel. If you do hear a little buzz when you operate the microwave, The timer/control panel is operating, However It could be a few things which if you are confident enough to tackle, could be sorted by you but bear in mind that microwave ovens can store a lethal amount of voltage which can kill, about 2000 volts for a year or so. Possible causes of your fault are the Magnetron, Power transformer, Capacitor, Diode or even the control panel that provides power for the power transformer if you don`t hear the buzz. Have you got a meter?? Yes? Switch it to X10 ohms. Next, Unplug from the power socket and remove the casing, discharge the high voltage capacitor with a pair of well insulated snipe nosed pliers covered in a thick dry towel. Next, place the meter leads between the capacitor where the thick lead enters, and the casing of the oven. Does the meter read anything? No? You need to find out if the transformer is receiving power from the timer/control panel. If it is, the Magnetron will be US or the heater supply is missing to the magnetron. If the meter reads, The diode/capacitor or magnetron is short circuit. Disconnect the thick leads which are connected to the capacitor, Check for leakage across the capacitor again, Yes? Magnetron OK. Some diodes are built into the capacitor. On models where the diode is visible, (A black device going from the capacitor to a screw holding it to the casing), either unscrew the screw or disconnect the connector on the capacitor, now read the capacitor connector, if OK, no reading, Diode US, If there is a reading, the capacitor is US. If there`s still no reading, read the lead which you removed from the capacitor which goes to the Magnetron, If it reads, the Magnetron is Short Circuit. To check the heater, connect your meter across the two connectors on the magnetron, If it reads, the heaters are OK, read across the two wires that you revoved from the magnetron, if it reads, the Transformer is OK, if not, a new Transformer is reqiured. If not, they are O/C, New magnetron required. I hope this helps, Ian

Jun 09, 2009 | GE JVM1420 Microwave Oven

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