Question about GE Refrigerators

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GE profile artica PSS26LSRC wont start after a power outage. Interior lights work but compressor and fan will not run. No controls on interior or front panel buttons. Any ideas?

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  • GE Master
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I had seen couple same issues, and all the time it was main control board. And in 90% of the time if U pull that computer board out Visually u can see on the back burned spot. Hope That Helps.

Posted on Sep 07, 2015

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  • GE Master
  • 5,323 Answers

1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

Posted on Apr 10, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

HVACRH20
  • 237 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile does not run.

Just to be sure... check your owners manual to see if this unit has a "showroom switch". It's a little switch that turns off the compressor, etc. but lets everything else light up so the sales persono on the showroom floor can show it off. Some customers have hit the switch to "on" during cleaning by accident.

Posted on Nov 09, 2006

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: Ge Profile Freezer not working

Main pcb failure but just check the wireing at the bottom of the freezer door as it can affect the control system

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: ge profile artica not cooling

  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

  • Next, see if the compressor motor is running

    The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

    If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

    • The compressor

    • The Thermostat

    • The overload, relay, or capacitor

    • The defrost timer

    • The condenser fan motor

    Posted on Aug 16, 2009

    mrfixit3667
    • 262 Answers

    SOURCE: my GE Profile Artica refrigerator front panel

    the front panal is called the interface. this interface has a small controlboard in it that talks to the main controlboard. I would change the interface first but in small ocations the main board would need to be replaced also. the interface part number is
    WR55X10390

    Posted on Jan 07, 2010

    Daniel S
    • 4323 Answers

    SOURCE: My GE Profile Artica is losing temperature. The

    Hi

    If refrigerator is not cooling properly it can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer is bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
    1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
    2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
    3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
    4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

    Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

    Daniel

    Posted on Jul 05, 2011

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    Ge profile artica not cooling


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.

  • Next, see if the compressor motor is running

    The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

    If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

    • The compressor

    • The Thermostat

    • The overload, relay, or capacitor

    • The defrost timer

    • The condenser fan motor

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    Ge Profile Freezer not working


    Main pcb failure but just check the wireing at the bottom of the freezer door as it can affect the control system

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    GE Profile does not run.


    Just to be sure... check your owners manual to see if this unit has a "showroom switch". It's a little switch that turns off the compressor, etc. but lets everything else light up so the sales persono on the showroom floor can show it off. Some customers have hit the switch to "on" during cleaning by accident.

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