Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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My maytag oversize capacityplus quiet pack heavy-duty with lifetime tub will not drain the water on spin so i am left to ring out my laundry wat could possibly be wrong with it and how could i fixit

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  • 101 Answers

If the fault is not emptying the water out check the pump & also hoses for blockages. If the washer is pumping all the water out but not spinning fast enough, check belt tension & clutch.
If you have a drip dry switch check that it is turned off.

Posted on Apr 10, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: burned belt?

Yes, smell like your belt.. if there is water in tub, try to get it out... (wet vac)... slide your washer out and tilt it back so you can see under... there should be 2 belts.. 1 for gear and 1 for water drain pump... and you can check Sears.com for parts.. good luck...

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

SOURCE: Heavy Duty Super Capacity will spin but will not drain.

Pump may no be engaged, broken belt or clogged pump or defective pump. Easiest way to tell is to prop the unit up but keep it level. Put a mirror on floor under pump area, inspect belt to make sure its not broken. Inspect pump many are clear plastic so you can see any blockages. If looks OK, then put unit through wash cycle. Watch as it gets to the end of the wash cycle (good flashlight helps to direct the light where you need it) to see if belt is spinning and if pump is actually turning etc. I usually put a piece of 4 x 4 front to back under 2 feet on each side. Just make sure not to let tf slip off and don't put hands etc, under while its running.

Posted on Jan 01, 2015

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: maytag dependable care quiet plus heavy duty 2 speed super capacity washer fills with water but won't agitate spin or drain

I presume that you read your manual on that problem. I have a Maytag. So far mine is not quiet so I cannot help you with that area but if your washing machine is not spinning or agitating if you are still under warranty FIRST CALL the manufacturer. That way you will not void your warranty. If it isn't under warranty, CALL them anyway. The help line knows a lot about those problems. Now on my old one - not one of the new ones - I had a warranty on appliances. Washer was included. They told me that the belt was not turning something in the motor. It was either worn or broken. Either way don't you try to fix it. Unless you are a machine repair person - do not try to get to it. You cannot imagine how many little pieces were included in that motor. Even a motor scheme sheet for your machine will not be worth your time. They did fix mine. I just gave you the speech the repair person gave me. The house call was not very much. That was back some years so -25 - 50 dollars for another 10 years of usage was good. I read the instructions to everything. That is just my inquisitive nature. However, that may be a headache to you. So get your manual out and go to the troubleshooting section. If you don't see an answer, look on your washing machine and get the model AND serial number. MAYTAG used to have that information on the lid or door somewhere. It is very hard to use even with a magnifying glass. Choose a time you are in a good mood. If you cannot find it, call the store where you purchased it. They can give you all of that information and where to call. Or they can tell you your warranty information and some of the reasons it might be happening. Last, go ahead and dip that water out of the machine tub. That will be way more water than you anticipated. If you haven't, remember you are working with water and electricity. Put on your boots - just because it is a messy job. Now, before you start UNPLUG EVERYTHING. Last, if you have an older model, it might take a while to get parts. Be prepared to do a little light sink sudsing and wearing clothing more than once (smiling.) More than likely this is a Maytag repair problem. If you cannot find your warranty information, when you call the retailer, they have it. If you bought it at Home Depot or Lowes they will have ALL of your information. Isn't technology wonderful??

Posted on Jan 23, 2015

  • 932 Answers

SOURCE: WASHER GOES THROUGH THE WASH CYCLE THEN STOPS. WONT DRAIN THE WATER AND WONT SPIN

I would agree with Mike above that the lid switch needs to be looked at. With the lid switch bad the timer thinks that the lid is up and they are designed to stop until you put the lid back down. Sometimes you can put a zip tie around the switch to hold it together, because what usually happens is the glue holding the switch together gets dissolved from the soap and water and the switch gets pushed apart. The zip tie is an in-expensive way to repair your switch. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 27, 2015

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Spin cycle is not getting clothes completely dry, can still hand ring water from clothing


When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

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The laundry tub does not have adequate drain size to handle discharge from the washing machine. In addition, the kitchen and laundry area piping may not be correctly vented.

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During the spin cycle the washer does not drain the water. The cycle ends but the water remains in the washer. This happens in all of the spin cycles. I have a kenmore model heavy duty extra large capacity...


It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these: It spins, but doesn't pump It doesn't spin or pump It pumps, but the water returns It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

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2 Answers

Clothes are sill soaking wet after sin cycle


When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.

  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

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1 Answer

Burned belt?


Yes, smell like your belt.. if there is water in tub, try to get it out... (wet vac)... slide your washer out and tilt it back so you can see under... there should be 2 belts.. 1 for gear and 1 for water drain pump... and you can check Sears.com for parts.. good luck...

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1 Answer

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When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: 

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. 

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve. 

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1 Answer

Spin cycle not working properly, clothes still wet!!!!


When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler Totest the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let themachine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether thetub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • Ifit isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you mayhave a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small,relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. Thisplastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor onone side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the couplerwears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace itcompletely.


Spin cycle Ifthe washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be toowet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properlybalanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, youmay have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®),or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicablecomponent.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caughtbetween the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump"section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be otherthings that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of aqualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning Ifthe water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machineafter the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning thewater from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Tryto improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuckin the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more thanabout 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inletvalves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inletvalve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricityis turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into theclothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when youhaven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
More information can be found here:
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp#Level1_12

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