Question about Heating & Cooling
This furnace is three years old and worked well the first two years; in Dec. it started kicking out for varying periods of time - 30 to 60 min's. - then would come back on. I've had 5 technician calls by two diff. companies and no one can solve the problem. The pressure switches have been changed, the igniter was badly burned and changed, the discharge line is free. I'm told that the unit is having intake or exhaust problems but no one so far has been able to tell me what's the exact nature of the blockage. I would greatly appreciate any advice.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The problem you have is water in the exhaust pipe.
Check to see if the pipe has sagged anywhere or if there is a trap in the line.
If you hear gurgling then it is definetly water....
Some times can be hard to find, even a pipe 1/4 full will cause problems. They are very sensitive to flue problems.
Make sure that the flue pipe either runs back to the furnace or out to the outside, a continuos slope either way witha high spot in the middle.
Also check the bottom drain of the blower if it has one, have had them plug and trap water also..
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
Thanks for using Fixya!!
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
SOURCE: I have had problems with
if the switch at the top of unit is tripping there is something wrong with the vent , the switch is set at 350 degrees it detects back draft do to a improper vent or blockage of vent, if the installer use the old vent system that is more than likley the problem, have the installer call Cozy tech line at 502-589-5380 so they can go over how the unit is installed.
Posted on Dec 29, 2010
Hello, sounds like the limit switch is opening on the furnace.Usually when a furnace goes off on its high limit is becuase the airflow is being restricted making the furnace overheat. a limit switch is there to protect the furnaace from overheating, most cuases are either dirt or the blower motor not running up to speed, anything that cuts down on the airflow will cause the high limt switch to open.
Posted on Feb 24, 2011
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