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I have a Kenmore elite quite pak 2 and its been giving problems as of right now nothing seems to be turning on... It does that time to time what can I do to reset the whole washer? Please help

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 1,585 Answers

Remove plug 4 10 mins

Posted on Apr 12, 2015

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 497 Answers

SOURCE: Error "F6" on my Smartwash Quite Pak9

I believe the F6 code is a motor failure. I suggest you call a pro to come out and look at it.

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 22942 Top Load Washer: Our Kenmore Elite w/ Quiet Pak II Super Capacity t...

my kenmore washer elite11 leaks water in the rinse cycle on the floor.

Posted on Jun 19, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: My washer is showing the code F 06.It's a Kenmore

The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 - is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.


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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite quiet pak 4- drips water into empty washer

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.


http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbwdbgtqbsqkfbgxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kdtfgttdqxkfqrdrrdq/1/1303472/5961857/image45926img-or.jpg

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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

  • 6277 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite smartwash quiet pak

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This is symptomatic of a malfunctioning water control valve- not closing fully- the hot water one, if the washer is hot and cold fill, and the cold one if it is just cold fill!
Sorry but it needs replacing and a service call ;-0(
Good luck,
John C

Posted on Mar 19, 2011

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