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My Wacker plate compactor runs great for 20 seconds and Completely shuts off, then I start it right back up again with no problems and it shuts off again, the oil is full and the carburetor is changed

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  • 3,519 Answers

Sounds like fuel flow is a probable cause of the problem.
Try draining the carb just in case there's some contaminates in it. Also try the fuel tank. Turn the fuel valve off.... disconnect the fuel line and point it into a glass jar, then turn the valve on and allow 1/2 cup or so to drain. Have a look at the fuel for grit, rust, water, etc. If there is a fuel filter make sure it is clean.
Hook it all back up and give 'er a go! Cheers it it does!

Posted on Apr 09, 2015

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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chiquititas
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SOURCE: 1997 ford crown victoria starting problems

Sounds like you're on the right track. A bad TPS and ISC motor sensor will cause the problems you're experiencing. Your ECM relies on the readings it gets from the TPS to be sure there is enough air getting to the engine. If the ECM gets a bad reading and thinks not enough air is getting to the engine, it will cut the fuel supply, hence causing your engine to die. Your ISC relies on the reading from the TPS as well. It detects from the ECM if the throttle plate is closed or not. If it thinks the throttle plate is fully closed, it will start allowing air to enter the engine and bypass the throttle plate. If your ECM starts seeing some unmeasured air coming from ISC and detects the throttle plate is open (which it may not be due to a bad TPS reading), the ECM will again cut the fuel supply to avoid the risk of detonation.

So, replace your TPS first and see if that cures your problem. Also, check the resistence readings of your ISC to be sure that is within spec. If your problem still occurs, check your Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor in your air filter housing. Be sure your spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor are all in good shape as well. Replace your fuel filter if you haven't done so in the past 2-3 years.
Good luck!

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: runs ,then loses power after driving for 30-60 minutes.

AIR IN THE GAS TALK

Posted on Aug 06, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: the van starts right up but shuts right back off

you might have a regular key instead of a microchip key. the micro chip key sends the signal to the computer. If you have a regular key it will start and a couple of seconds it will shut off and do it over and over again.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1999 4.0L Jeep Grand Cherokee shuts down after 20-30 minutes.

I'd suggest the ignition control module, however I'd have a certified mechanic check it out just in case...

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Have a 95 Camaro Z28 LTI, after starting the

i and my buddy had the same problem. After findin i had bad ignition wires and spending over 1000 we found a guy that told us that the distrbutor goes bad on these cars. and he replaced at least a 100 of those things. GM is aware of problem and made and improved OPTI SPARK distrbutor. IT will probably cost u a good 600 easily but never had the problem again.

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

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It all really depends on what you want to do. There are three main types of plate compactors.
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1 Answer

Have a Viking trash compactor VUC181 that will not open. Appears latch is broke. How can I get it open?


I have had this same problem and found two causes. Latch was never the problem.
#1 - Ram not in full up position. To check remove top plate and attempt to run compactor - depressing microswitch when ram is at the top. If compactor will not run you can check the ram position by turning the primary screw drive with a ratchet wrench. When ram is at the top position attempt to open the compactor drawer. The stop microswitch seems to frequently bend out of alignment - check the microswitch positioning before resecuring top plate and adjust if necessary.
#2 - Can (or other debris) is wedged in between ram and drawer. Remove back cover and carefully inspect insides of the unit - use a flashlight. Pry out any debris that may impede the drawer from opening. Attempt to open the compactor drawer.

Good luck,
Jon B.
jbroccoli@aol.com

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What I did was to get a crowbar that would fit through the crack and hook the underneath side of the bottom plate. You also have to hold the switch so the motor runs with the door open and pull up on the plate until the drawer can be slide out. The trunnion nut (a plastic nut) was cracked. I replaced it 3 years ago, and it just cracked again. They now make it out of metal, so maybe it will last longer. Ordered it from appliancepartspros.com.

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To get to the nut, you have to lay the compactor on its side and remove the plate from the bottom. You'll see a chain that goes around the motor sprocket and both ram screws. You need to tighten the nuts on the ram screws.

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