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I've pulled and held the switch and it won't start. There is power and gas getting to it but it just won't start. What should I do to get this going?

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WASHER WILL NOT START:

Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.

Posted on Apr 20, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: A 2001 ford escort zx2

i would have someone check the computer out.

Posted on May 11, 2011

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2005 Saturn Ion 2 Problems: It wont turn over or anything no noise etc.. Replaced the ignition switch and nothing. Starter checked out. So what could be the problem?


With key on, do the warning lights and gauges come on? If yes, next is to check the start wire from ignition switch to the starter solenoid. The only time this wire has power is when the key is held in start. One could pull off the small wire at the starter solenoid on the starter, and check if it has power with the key held in start. If it does have power, may be a problem with the starter solenoid. But if no power on that wire, you will have to trace the wire from switch to starter. Not a direct path to the starter though. There is a park/neutral safety switch that the wire has to pass power through, so in park or neutral you would have power in and power out of the switch. If you have a manual transmission, substitute a clutch safety switch (or clutch inter-lock switch) for the park/neutral switch. If you have this, easy to check for power in/power out of the switch, with clutch pedal depressed and key held in start.
There is also likely a starter relay in the circuit. If you can find it and if you have a test light or voltmeter, you can do some checking here to see if your start wire still has power. Pull the relay out, key off. See if any terminals the relay plugs into has power. May or may not, depending on how the wiring is set up for the relay. But now if you hold key in start and check all the terminals, there should be at least one (maybe two) terminals that have power, where they didn't have before. That tells you the power is still getting out to this point.
If you have a theft deterrent system, and it is activated, at this relay is where it may come into play-not letting power pass through to the starter solenoid on the starter.
Sorry I do not have a wiring diagram so could give you more specifics. Hope you kind of get the picture, though. Large maxifuses pass power to the ignition switch. The switch sends the power out as demanded. The start wire out of the switch going through the start circuit to the starter solenoid only has power when the key is held in start.

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You may be right. Sometimes a starter test doesn't reveal everything. But before you pull the starter, do this quick test. It should confirm if problem is the starter or the ignition switch. When the car won't crank over, pull the small wire off the starter solenoid (on the starter), and check if it has power when key is held in crank position. You need a helper to hold the key in crank. If the wire has power (use a testlight or meter to check for power), and the starter won't crank, pull the starter off for testing or replacement. But if there is no power on the wire when key is held in crank, then it confirms that power is not being transmitted from the switch to the starter. Not to say for sure it is the switch, could also be another part in the path from switch to solenoid (like the neutral safety switch). But more common for the ignition switch to go out first. Either replace the switch or continue testing your start circuit. Post back with results or for further help. Good luck.

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