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Why is my mixer staying on high? It's only 3 months old.

Sunbeam planetary mixmaster pro

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  • Steve Harris
    Steve Harris Apr 08, 2015

    Hi Bertha Fahey, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? What type of mixer is it?

  • Bertha Fahey
    Bertha Fahey Apr 08, 2015

    its a 600 watt sunbeam planetary stand mixer

  • Bertha Fahey
    Bertha Fahey Apr 08, 2015

    mixmaster pro

  • Bertha Fahey
    Bertha Fahey Apr 08, 2015

    mixmaster pro 600 watt sunbeam planetary

  • Bertha Fahey
    Bertha Fahey Apr 08, 2015

    sunbeam mixmaster pro planetary stand mixer

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Regarding the Sunbeam Mixmaster (model

Pry the beater release button out with a screwdriver. There are two screws underneath it and one under the motor housing between the the beater holes. This will allow you to remove the chrome front cover, but not the motor and drive assembly. Getting to the part that contains the gears requires complete disassembly of the mixer. It is not designed for service, and requires patience and a variety of tools to disassemble.

It has a metal worm gear and plastic drive gears. If the beaters are out of alignment, then one or both of the plastic gears are stripped and the mixer is junk. Repair plus shipping costs equals the price of a new mixer. This is the weak point of these mixers and a fundamental flaw in an otherwise robust and sturdy design. It is definitly not the same mixer *********** bought 30 years ago.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: After dough hooks for my sunbeam mixmaster model no. mx-ac

Use this link. I'd been looking for years and I found them here. http://buyitnow64.stores.yahoo.net/sustmidoho.html

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Sunbeam Mixmaster 12 speed may need lubrication

Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.

On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-

There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.

On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.

Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.

Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.

Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.

The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.

After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)

Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.

Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.

Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..

There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.

Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.

Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.

Part 2, speed control.

The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....

Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.

Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.

Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.

Put everything back the way it came off.

To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.

Replace the chrome cap and you're done.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my sunbeam mixmaster (50 Years old)model 12c 150

Try one of these small appliance repair shops:

http://www.fixya.com/repair/small_appliances/us/ca/winnetka

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

hslincoln
  • 235 Answers

SOURCE: New mixer did not come with manual

Hi MITCH, Happy New Year! Somebody at Sunbeam must have been asleep when the mixer passed by on the production line...duh? I hate when that happens. The good news is that you can download a PDF Users Manual from the Sunbeam website. Just click on this link Heritage Series 2353 Mixmaster and look for your M-I-L’s model to about ½-way down the page. Open the file and save it to your PC.
I’m not very keen with the way Sunbeam lays out their User’s Manuals. You’ll need to do some editing and repaginating to get it into a format that your M-I-L- can use, but at least you’ll have it. You can send it to her electronically or print just the English pages and mail; your choice.
Good Luck. I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution has been helpful, please rate it, thanks! - hslincoln

Posted on Jan 19, 2010

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