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The freezer works but the fridge isn't cooling. repair guy says new evaporator. wanting a second opinion?

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Ur tech guy needs go back to school? It could be a series of things?
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in the fride and freezer, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ









Posted on Apr 08, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Auto defrost not working correctly

the tray at the bottom which collects defrost water usually has its own heater or a section of the main heater runs close to it. check this part of the heater has continuity. an old trick as well which sometimes works is to wrap some copper wire round the heater and lead this to the drain hole. conductiuon of heat thro the copper helps keep the drain clear. this is a common problem across all makes

Posted on May 08, 2007

zeusfaber
  • 247 Answers

SOURCE: Samsung Fridge Freezer (Freezer on top)Model SR-52NXA wont cool

Depends a bit on whether the compressor really is running, or if it's just humming because it's got power on the run coil, but not on the start coil.

Have a careful listen to the compressor. If it's making the trilling or gurgling sounds that go with a working compressor, then your problem is probably one of lost gas. Fixing this is not a do-it-yourself job.

If the compressor sounds like it's stalled, the problem may lie with the starter. Replacements are usually cheap enough for it to be worth fitting a new one just to see if it works.

A.

Posted on Feb 28, 2008

Techsim
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: Amana BX22A2W - freezer works, fridge not cooling

Check the damper in the top back of the fresh food section. make sure that it is open and air is coming through it.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: Dometic Americana Freezer/Fridge not cooling

The recall has nothing to do with your fridge not working. Your cooling unit has gone bad. And yes you can get a new fridge for a few hundred more than a new cooling unit. And sooner or later PPL motorhomes will run out of their cheap stock. The fridges they have are out of production. I know I am a Dometic dealer.

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: MAYTAG SIDE BY SIDE FRIDGE FREEZER STAINLESS STEEL

The problem will come back in about a week once the coils frost up again. This seems to be a common problem with these refrigerators. I had the same problem a while back. Sounds like your defrost board is dead. part number is 12002104. You can find it at searspartsdirect.com

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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My GE model GSH25JFTCBB side by side is not cooling in the fridge side. Freezer seems to be doing fine. What could be wrong


you could have a defrost problem,a bad damper,bad computer board.first thing,open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing in there?you should,if not the evap fan motor is bad,if it's blowing touch the back inside wall of the freezer to see if any frost or like snow is on it,from the bottom up in the freezer remove the second bin of food and touch the back inside wall with your hand,if it has frost or snow you have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,heater,sensor or board,if there isn't anything on the wall then you have a bad damper,all that happens is the evaporator coil in the freezer gets cold,then the evaporator fan in the freezer blows the cold air over into the fridge section,you have a damper in your machine that opens and closes when it's cold enough or when it needs to get colder,the door on the damper isn't opening to let the cold air in when it calls for cold air.if you can write back and let me know what you find and hopefully we can get it fixed.

Sep 15, 2012 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

MTB1895AE Maytag fridge isn't cooling, freezer seems to be okay except for frost build up


The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute.

Jun 22, 2012 | Maytag MTB2156GES Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Maytag MDS2351- came home one day and noticed water coming from where u get the ice and water when i opened the freezer it was not cool and everything i had in there was defrosted and then when i went to...


Your fridge operates like that: a compressor liquefies freon vapours; this creates heat so the hot liquid goes thru a cooling radiator with a fan on it (these 2 elements are at the rear bottom of the fridge) the freon fluid goes to an evaporator, turns to vapour and absorbs heat in the process, cooling the evaporator; a fan blows air over the evaporator and spreads the cooled air all over the fridge; the vapours return to the compressor.
In the rear of the fridge you should make sure that the radiator is clean and the fan working; inside the fridge you should make sure that the evaporator is not covered in ice and/or dirt and its fan is working. If necessary clean both.
If they are clean , the fans work but the evaporator isn't cold then either the freon circuit has sprung a leak and all the fluid has been lost or the compressor isn't working - to find out which just put your hands on the compressor : if it's hot and vibrates the fluid has been lost, if it doesn't vibrates then the compressor isn't working.
The compressor isn't working because either the thermostat or itself have failed. To find out which the compressor will have to be powered directly from the mains: if it starts then the thermostat must be replaced, if it doesn't the compressor will.
To fix the freon circuit or to replace the compressor a certified professional is mandatory, you must call one.

Jul 12, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I've recently been having trouble with my american fridge freezer. The freezer isn't freezing and the fridge is barely cold. The motor is working and there is some cold coming from somewhere but...


Hello,
Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;
Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.
It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.
Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:
There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.
If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.
The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.
If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.
Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food
As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover. 2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover. 3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector. 4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.
I hope the above helps.......
Good luck.

Jul 10, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My one year old (but new condition) LG fridge was left nicely wrapped up inside the box unused for over 6 months as I was travelling. After I returned home, I unpacked it, cleaned it up and put it on to...


first question, Did you contact lg and they sent a repair man, or did you just pick one. If you picked the person, them your stuck with whatever happens next. I from experience where I work, If you went through lg, and problem was not resolved, and could verify that the purchase was made within a year. You would most likely end up with a new fridge from our store, with no cost to you.

Mar 24, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Kenmore refrigerator will not cool. Freezer works


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Aug 27, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Dometic RM763. Freezer=Yes,Fridge=No


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Aug 21, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Subzero 590: freezer works, refrigerator not cooling


This is a Sub Zero and many technicians do not realize that these units most all run on 2 separate systems. 2 cold controls 2 compressors 2 evaporators. They share a condenser and condenser fan motor. What you are describing is most likely a bad cold control. It is pretty common for these to get some age and go bad. If you are very savvy with repairs yourself then if you access the compressor area and feel that the compressor on the right is cool and the compressor on the left is warm then you know that the ref. compressor has not been running. UNPLUG THE UNIT OR CUT THE BREAKER OFF. Remove the shelving from the fresh food section and the cover to the lights and the panel below the lights and lean the back panel forward to access the cold control. You will see 3 wires to the cold control. The green wire is the ground wire of corse. Unplug the other 2 wires remembering their location on the control unit. Take a jumper wire and jump these 2 wires. If when you power the unit up the right side compressor comes on then you know that your fresh food cold control is bad. Replace fresh food cold control.

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4 Answers

Ge Profile Top freezer-not cooling/not freezing


Evaporator fan motor inside the freezer is working? Any frost on the freezer back wall?

This is the fan inside the freezer section, it will circulate the cold air around in the freezer and blow the cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section, it also sucks the warm air from the fresh food section back into the freezer to be re-cooled.

Hot condensor coils ( under the refrigerator ) been cleaned recently?

**GSS25LGMA**

That is part of a full model#.

00082692.jpgEvaporator fan motor

Jan 21, 2009 | GE Profile Arctica Stainless Steel Top...

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