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Whirlpool AWG500 front loader washing machine Rust inside the casing and drum making a grinding sound when turning. Also not spinning properly and leaking underneath

Suggested part replacement please

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  • 101 Answers

Main Bearings & seal are shot, this is a big job & usually attempted by a serviceman only.

Posted on Apr 08, 2015

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE Front loader washing machine

renew your door seal

Posted on May 27, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: MAYTAG WASHING MACHINE

The rubber smell is the belt from the motor to the tub. The grinding sound is/was the tension pulley that keeps the belt tight. The bearing on the pulley probably went out and now the belt is burning because of the friction of sliding around the pulley. The belt and the pulley need to be replaced. If you have the room, turn off and disconnect the hoses. Unplug the electrical cord from the wall outlet. Remove the drain hose and any water in the tub. Carefully tip the washer over backwards, DO DROP IT!!! Now you should be able to see the motor, tub, tension pulley, and belt. With a basic 3/8' drive socket set, probably metric, and a couple of screw drivers you should be able to remove the belt and the pulley. Take the belt, pulley, and model numbers to an applicance parts store and buy replacements.

I only suggest this because I hate paying labor. If you are not machanically inclined then you are going to have to pay the labor.

Good Luck

Posted on Dec 19, 2007

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine rubber door seal replacement

Go to www.Searspartsdirect.com You should be able to find an exploded view and parts list

Posted on Feb 29, 2008

futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchenaid Top Loader leaks

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

SOURCE: washing machine drum is very wobbly

* General tips
* Balance the load
* Level the machine
* Inspect the water pump for a blockage
* Inspect the coupling
* Inspect the transmission
* Adjust the drive belt tension
* Check the motor bearings
* Check the drum brakes

The above are possibly the general remedies for this problem.But possible if the problem still persists after this, possibly the drum bearings might have been damaged during the previous heavy vibrations.Please do post comments.Will be glad to help you out.Good luck.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

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1 Answer

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If it is a front loader, then it sounds like the drum bearings have failed, spin the drum from the front by hand, if it feels rough or is noisy, then bearings have failed.

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The symptoms that you describe are caused by bearing failure. The water seal in the wash tub has failed, allowing water to leak into the bearing causing the bearings to rust. As the bearings start to rust, they will not roll properly and start to make a rumbling sound. The sound get louder the faster the bearing turns.
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