Changed water filter when water wouldn't come out. Last filter change was 1 year ago as change filter lights don't seem to work. Water fills the filter up, but that's as far as it gets.
Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary.
WATER INLET VALVE:
Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.
The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.
(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.
Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY:
If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.
If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.
This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced
On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.
Testimonial: "Thanks, We checked the lines and there seemed to be something blocking the line in the door. We disconnected and blew in the line and it worked."
ur welcome
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SOURCE: ice won't dispense, no power to water light
I would check hte wire harness leadngto the door under hte freezer hinge. itll be wrapped in a black web like covering. Just under hte unit itself follow ht ewire and unplug hte harness. then carfully cut hte black webbing and inspect wires. there tends ot be apinch point there and the wires will sheer from one another, . if so there is no replcing hte harness, the door would have to be replaced at a cost of nealry $600. not enough room for a wire nut, but hav had sucess using stright inline bullet style connector, or others have sucessfully soldered connections back in place
SOURCE: ice maker doesn't work. changed filter. light on ice maker door still on.
Hi,
Just check THIS link out.It will solve your problem.
From my side i believe it is the control board which has to be replaced and it will work again.
Goodluck..
SOURCE: freezer does not make ice
You need to check and see if ice maker has any water init. if not check the fill tube that goes thru the back wall for stoppage while you have it out rin the maker thru a harvest mode and listen for the sounds of the solonoid opening. If tube is full you'll need to replace the slow leaking valve a common problem. for parts call 704-819-6557
SOURCE: Not getting any water out of my dispenser. The
I have the same problem with the same refrigerator, call up GE Customer Service and tell them that you want part number WR49X10173, a water dispenser heater kit. They should sell it to you for a "discounted" price of $25. Good Luck, and don't ever by GE anything ever again.
Thank you for your inquiry, Herb!
I see that your Frigidaire refrigerator, FGHB2866PF, is not making enough ice. When is the last time you changed your filter? It is recommended to change your filter every six to nine months. If the filter is dirty the icemaker will not produce. You may also have a frozen water line and you can perform a manual defrost in order to clear out the line. To manually defrost your line you would need to disconnect power from it for at least three to four hours. If that does not correct your issue you may need to have a professional technician out to perform a diagnosis and repair. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt
Hello friend, thank you for your post!
I understand that your Frigidaire refrigerator is not producing enough ice. I would advise to check and make sure that your water filter has a secure connection, if need be uninstall and reinstall the water filter to assure connection. Your filter should be changed every six months, if it is has not been changed recently I would recommend exchanging it.
If you continue to receive low ice production it could be an issue with your water line or water valve, I would seek assistance from a professional for proper diagnose and repair of your appliance. I hope this helps. -Matt
Hello jcwilson2929 - If your ice maker has stopped producing ice completely, you can check the following:
1. It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, try one of these: If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire. If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire. In either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again.
2. Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.
3. When was the last time the filter was changed? Most side-by-side filters are recommended to be change approximately every 6-9 months depending on your water usage and frequency. The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice or have a clogged water filter. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts!
4. Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary. The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it.
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