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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Put the diode back in but check the polarity. If removing the new diode corrected the problem, the new diode was in backwards.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
I have the same welder. Worked well for 15 years until the drive bearing stopped spinning. I cleaned and oiled the bearing and it has been working like a coon on the farm since. Nice 120 volt welder....
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
Take off shroud, look at where the positive lead hooks into the transformer. You may find that the wire has melted, If you are lucky, you can loop it tnough to make a fresh connection. (also check the negitive)
Posted on Dec 25, 2009
SOURCE: I have a miller trailblazer
Probably your machines just overloaded; the engine will run and produce voltage but no weld output. Check your fuses F1 and F2, if they are open replace them.
Both fuses are located at left hand side of machine, open it and you will find them on the bracket.
If this was useful please vote, thanks.
Posted on Apr 28, 2011
SOURCE: have a miller trailblazer 302.
Hi, well i am sorry to tell you but one should NEVER "Jump Start" a machine such as this... replacing the battery with a good one well OK, starting from another Car, Truck, system & battery is BAD.
This procedure is usually done by simply paralleling the remote battery across the existing battery, this can and will often cause damage, sometimes one may "Get away with it" but on the whole it will damage things..
I think H & 0 error codes, have to do with the charging system?
It will most likely be this, "Jump starting" that has damaged the electronics in the system? In any event a flat battery is a no no.. there should be no condition that the battery should have gone flat? It should have been charged up via the recharging system inbuilt into the W/G. Of course this may indeed be the problem, as in there is a existing fault that caused the battery NOT to be charged?
Neither of those CB's has very much bearing on anything, unless they are "Tripped" which from what you indicate they were not. There are no other fuse panels etc to my knowledge?
You are going to have to get in a professional as if what i suspect is true then you will need certain electronic boards replaced.. only a thorough professional testing and inspection will tell.
If one ever MUST remote start any battery started device FIRST one must completely remove the battery connections from BOTH ends, and then and only then, may one connect up the jumper cables, always using the Earth which is connected First, and then the Positive, Remote terminal first then connect to the device. To disconnect the reverse is followed, the Positive is removed from the NON Remote end, FIRST, then the other positive end from the remote terminal, then the Earths can be removed. This will stop any spike surges or other "nasties" from .affecting the system.
Posted on Jun 17, 2011
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