Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i am a recently retired engineer of 20 years, but this sounds like (based on the info given) a heater element fault, after the machine fills up and agitates a few times the heater should start, check the heater for open circuit, replace if needed, of course it just could be a wire off? if i have helped rate me please
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
SOURCE: Fault code C1
"C1" is known as an Instantaneous Current Limit Error. This will occur when the Motor Controller detects a current spike of 26 amps or greater at the motor windings. Overloading the washer, excessive water and/or excessive suds can cause this problem.
The manufacturer recommends the following:
- Wash smaller loads and use the correct detergent (HE only for Calypso machines). NOTE: Make sure the HE detergent is not double or triple concentrated as this will also cause suds problems.
- Check for objects under the nunate plate. This is the wash plate. Sometimes clothing can get stuck under the plate and cause the motor to bind up. To remove the nunate plate, follow these instructions:
1. UNPLUG THE WASHER.
2. Open the washer top. Look along the front seam of the washer where the top meets the front. There are a couple of retaining clips (about 2" in from each side) that you will need to push in on with a putty knife while gently lifting up on the top to get the top to release. Carefully open the top and lay it back against the wall in a resting position. Make sure you support the lid so it doesn't fall open when you tilt the top back.
3. Remove the tub ring. This is the plastic donut shaped ring that sits on top of the wash tub. There will be a tab on either side of the outer tub near the back that you can use a screwdriver to release the tub ring. The ring is filled with fluid and is used to balance the tub. So, if you hear liquid sloshing around, this is normal.
4. Remove the center cone from the wash plate. Use a flat blade screwdriver and insert it into any of the slots available along the sides. Gently pry until it pops off. I say "gently", but you may have to use a little muscle to get it to come off. Sometimes they stick. Once the center cone is removed there will be a series of nuts under it.
5. Remove the nuts and the wash plate should lift out. Be careful not to damage the gasket under it. Clothing can get tangled in the leveler under the wash plate. This leveler should have a key on it. The wash plate will only go back in with this key mating to a slot on it. So, remember how you took it off. In addition, when putting the wash plate back on, make sure you tighten the nuts in a cross pattern and evenly tighten them as you go. This will ensure the gasket seats properly. Don't forget to put the tub ring back in.
- Check for objects stuck between the inner wash tub and the outer basket. NOTE: It is best to do this with the nunate plate removed. Use a flashlight to peer through the holes in the wash basket to see if anything is catching on the tub.
- Check the Motor Controller. You will need to determine if there is power getting the the board first and that the fuse on the board is good. If any components on the board are defective, the board has to be replaced. If you have power to the board and the fuse checks good, check for continuity between the Machine Controller and Motor Controller.
There is a tech sheet inside your washer along the interior cabinet (usually the front panel) that explains all these procedures to you. I would advise you to research the tech sheet for exact locations of the pin outs for the circuit boards. Its easier for you to view it rather than me explain it. If you need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 03, 2008
SOURCE: Washing Machine Fault Code
The recommendation to get a new motor may be overkill and a very expensive option. Also on this site I found an alternative solution which was to just replace the motor brushes. This we did and it fixed the problem, coasting us just £20.15, rather than the £199 quoted for a new motor!
A reasonably competent person needs to remove the motor, identify the brushes and remove - just involves two hex-head screws. When new the brushes will be around 2.5cm long. They need to be around 1 - 1.5cm long to work. Alternatively the spring(s) may be sticking, preventing the brushes from being pushed against the rotor.
When calling suppliers to enquire as to availability I needed not just the product description, but also the PNC and serial numbers (located inside the front door), as types of brushes have varied during the production period. However the outlet I went to still did not have the correct bush - housings were different. The chap serviing very kindly swapped new brushes into the existing housings - this is something you could do yourself if you cannot get the exact same ones - just a little fiddly.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
I have a Fisher & Paykel GW609AU Smartdrive Excellence 6.5 Washing Machine that would start then stop then start then stop a few more times before eventually beeping.
I fixed it by bypassing(joined the white and yellow wire) the trip out switch which is located under the control module(one screw to remove).Now it Works.
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
Hi just read your posting.This fault code indicates you have a COLD WATER VALVE FAULT.The lights you marked with --x-- are the ones that are lit.Is this correct?What you need to do is to test the valve coil for OHMS resistance.It should be around 60 to 63 ohms.The water valves are located under the top panel.Please reply to tell me how you got on or if you need further assistance.
Posted on Jun 27, 2010
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