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Re: what servicing does my mower need routinely?
Riding mower decks should be cleaned after each use to keep parts rusting and jamming especially the outer shell where the belts and pulleys are. The easiest way the outer shell is to use a leaf blower. The inside shell is hardier to clean although some decks provide a clean port that a garden hose attaches to and with the mower and deck operating wash it through this port.
It would not hurt clean inside of the mower deck of push mowers to extend their life as well.
You check you air filters and change oil on a regular base too. Oil is normally changed every 25 hours of operation or annually which ever comes first.
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Tom, Grass chutes get rough on the inner walls of chute over time, try to wipe/scrub inner chute the best you can. After thoroughly clean and dry, try and wax and buff inner chute with car wax the best you can, so chute will be a little more slippery and expel grass better. You may have to do this once or twice a season. Good Luck.
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<li>Cutting the grass too short causes weak, thin grass plants, which are easily damaged by dry periods and pests.</li>
<li>Letting grass grow a bit longer-especially when it is hot and dry-reduces heat build-up, preserves needed moisture and protects the grass from heat damage and other problems.</li>
<li>A good rule of thumb is the one-third rule: to cut no more than one-third of the grass height, and never more than one inch at a time</li></span>
Blades cut the grass and blow air like a fan. The clippings should flow along with the air out into the yard or into the bag. That only works if the bag acts like a filter and catches the clippings but lets the air out to be replaced by more air and more clippings until the bag is full of clippings.
The most likely problem is that your bag does not let the air out. Cutting wet grass will coat the inside like green paint. When dry, it's like the underside of your mower.
Check the inside. You might need to scrape and/or flush from the outside in. Can yours be turned inside out"? That would be the best case.
When clean and dry, it should work.
Didn't mention the easiest fix: to take out the hand-ful of clipping blocking the path to the bad: since you already checked that.
missing return spring (on mine, its on top of the deck forward) or sticking mechanism. With mower off, you should be able to push back on the idler pully and the deck belt should loosen up. If its sticking, pull the deck off and see whats causing it (may be stick or dried grass). If its missing spring, dont try any old spring from hardware store (hmmm could this be from experience???), but order one from ebay or amazon or whoever has it cheapest.
I too have had that same problem. I found that "old" blades when repeatidly sharpened and worn will cause the same problem, also aftermarket blades instead of original manufactures recommended blades may not be dimensionally correct, too short. I have had to go back to using original blades to correct the problem.
This should work for you.
I had the same problem with my Alko going slow in forward and reverse. Believe it or not the problem is caused by a build up of grass cuttings around the hydro clutch mechanism. If you follow the mechanism from the foot pedal you will probably find the actuator is being prevented from engaging by a build up of old grass. Clean it out and you should find it restores normal operation. This has happened to me a few times so now I blow out the grass on a regular basis with an air compressor which stops me having any problems. It also stops a hefty bill from the service dealer :-)
I've noticed that when the blade get dull it work harder a cutting tall grass. I just put a new blade on mine and now it runs and sounds like a brand new mower. also if the inside of the deck is coated with old grass that makes a differance too