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How do you replace the oil seals on chain case

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Depends on the make and model. Some are easy and others requires special tools to split the case.

Posted on Apr 07, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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What are the steps in replacing the rear seal in a 1966 ford f-100 with a 352 engine?


I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't have to remove the engine/transmission, split the trans from the engine, remove the TC or clutch/pressure plate, (you should have drained engine oil and auto trans oil before doing this), remove the oil pan, remove the rear most main bearing cap, rotate a new seal into place, replace rear main bearing cap, torque, etc. and reassemble.

Worst case you may have to remove harmonic balancer and front timing chain cover, front seal, release all the connecting rod caps and main bearing caps, remove the crankshaft, replace the rear main seal and reassemble. It's a 1966 engine...you should consider replacing the front timing chain with a roller chain as well as rod and main bearing inserts if you have to do all this.

Feb 04, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks

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Oil drips form primary case on 05 dyna low rider


Very little, if any, unless the trans was over filled, then the oil may come out of the breather hose. Did you check the shift shaft seal when you had the primary off?

Mar 31, 2013 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXDL - FXDLI Dyna Low...

1 Answer

1998 lexus gs 300 oil leaking from timing belt area


style engines have timing chain covers that are sealed to the engine block using a gasket. With time this gasket can become weak allowing engine oil to leak. If after inspection this is the case with your engine, the only remedy is to disassemble and remove the timing chain cover to replace the gasket.
Top should read Timing chain style engines. hope this infor will be of use

Jan 31, 2012 | YouTube Videos

1 Answer

My saw smokes profusely while runing and seems to be getting the oil from my oil reservoir. What could be the problem.


There is no common connection point within the engine itself. A possibility that the plastic lower case which contains the two tanks in a common casting has developed a crack between the two tanks which would seem to indicate fuel in the chain oil as well. Replacement of the plastic casting seems to be the only remedy. Make sure that you are using 50:1 well-mixed fuel to oil ratio. Another unlikely possibility is a very loose crankshaft output bearing/seal assembly that could be drawing chain oil in from the chain area. Check for this by removing the bar and chain, then try moving the center of the clutch assembly in various directions. If perceptible movement is noticed, replacement of the bearing and seal would be desirable. Hope some of this helps!

Sep 13, 2010 | Homelite ZR10926 16 Chain Saw

1 Answer

Have 455 with oiling problem. Replaced oil pump and pinion gear. Saw is oiling with no bar on saw. Install bar and chain and oil drips from bottom of saw but none getting to bar and chain. What do I need...


Remove the bar and chain again, and check the two small oil passages that run out to the chain groove on either edge of the bar for plugging--they commonly fill with sawdust and dirt. Clean the entire chain groove, then reinstall the bar and chain. Make sure the bar fits up to the engine case tightly and that the chain adjustment 'tang' drops into one of the large holes in the bar end. There is usually a rubber seal on the engine case side where the oil oozes out--make sure it is intact and in place. Hope this helps!

Sep 08, 2010 | Husqvarna Garden

1 Answer

How to change time chain on a 3.3 v6 dodge caravan, easy way to look at timeing chain, so i can tell if it is bad


This design has no tensioner. Check the sprockets for wear on the tips--especially the crank sprocket. With the cover off, turn the crankshaft with a socket and see how close the chain comes to slipping backward on the sprocket. There are complete replacement procedures at AutoZone.com, which I will try to paste in below.

3.3L and 3.8L Engines

See Figure 18



0900c15280215ddb.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 18: Timing mark alignment-3.3L and 3.8L engines
  1. If possible, position the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the coolant.
  2. Remove the timing chain case cover. For more information, refer to the Front Timing Cover and Seal procedure, earlier in this section.
  3. Remove the camshaft gear attaching cup washer and remove the timing chain with both gears attached. Remove the timing chain snubber.

To install:
  1. Assemble the timing chain and gears.
  2. Turn the crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the key way locations of the gears.
  3. Slide both gears over their respective shafts and use a straight edge to confirm alignment.
  4. Install the cup washer and camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
  5. Check camshaft end-play. The specification with a new plate is 0.002-0.006 in. (0.051-0.052mm) and 0.002-0.010 in. (0.51-0.254mm) with a used plate. Replace the thrust plate if not within specifications.
  6. Install the timing chain snubber.
  7. Thoroughly clean and dry the gasket mating surfaces.
  8. Install new O-rings to the block.
  9. Remove the crankshaft oil seal from the cover. The seal must be removed from the cover when installing to ensure proper oil pump engagement.
  10. Using a new gasket, install the chain case cover to the engine.
  11. Make certain that the oil pump is engaged onto the crankshaft before proceeding, or severe engine damage will result. Install the attaching bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  12. Use tool C-4992, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft oil seal. Install the crankshaft pulley using a 5.9 in. suitable bolt and thrust bearing and washer plate L-4524, or equivalent. Make sure the pulley bottoms out on the crankshaft seal diameter. Install the bolt and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  13. Install all other parts removed during the chain case cover removal procedure and fill the engine with oil.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable, road test the vehicle and check for leaks.

Aug 29, 2010 | 1993 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

I have oil leaking from either the timing chain or the front main


if the front seal leak you can just replace the seal, if the timing cover is leaking then you will have to remove the cover. while you are in there, I suggest that you go ahead to replace the timing chain ( timing set ), seal and a new cover. parts cost less than 100 dollars.

May 25, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Husqvarna 359 leaking chain oil


Remove the sprocket cover, bar, and chain. Find area where oil is discharged from case--is any part of the rubber seal damaged? Next, use compressed air to clean sawdust and dirt from oiler ports in rear of bar as well as the chain slot. Are you using motor oil instead of bar oil? Make sure there is nothing to prevent bar from making close contact with oiler port in case. Reassemble all parts and adjust chain tension.

Apr 10, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

Oil pump replacement


This MAY seem Strange But It IS ALL necessary for Oil Pump Replacement. And Please Don't Forget to Rate Me as Most Folks Do Not. Thank You and GOOD LUCK with the Oil Pump Job Also


OIL PUMP
It is necessary to remove the oil pan, oil pickup and chain case cover to service the oil pump rotors. The oil pump pressure relief valve can be serviced by removing the oil pan and oil pickup tube. Refer to Timing Chain Cover Removal and Installation for procedures.

DISASSEMBLY
  1. To remove the relief valve, proceed as follows:
  2. Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8 inch) hole into the relief valve retainer cap and insert a self-threading sheet metal screw into cap.
  1. Clamp screw into a vise and while supporting chain case cover, remove cap by tapping chain case cover using a soft hammer. Discard retainer cap and remove spring and relief valve.
  2. Remove oil pump cover screws, and lift off cover.
  3. Remove pump rotors.
  1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect carefully for damage or wear.
Oil Pump Assembly
  1. Assemble pump, using new parts as required. Install the inner rotor with chamfer facing the cast iron oil pump cover.
  2. Tighten cover screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
  3. Prime oil pump before installation by filling rotor cavity with engine oil.
  4. Install chain case cover. Refer to Timing Chain Cover Installation.
REMOVAL of Timing cover
REMOVAL
  1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
  2. Remove timing chain cover.
REMOVAL Of Oil Pan to gain Access to OIL PUMP
  1. Disconnect negative cable from battery and remove engine oil dipstick.
  2. Raise vehicle on hoist and drain engine oil.
  3. Remove bending brace to transaxle attaching bolt.
  4. Remove bolts attaching dust cover to transaxle housing. Lower dust cover to gain access to oil pan bolts.
  5. Remove oil pan screws and remove oil pan.
INSTALLATION
  1. Clean surfaces and apply a 1/8 inch bead of Mopar (R) Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent, at the parting line of the chain case cover and the rear seal retainer.
    1. Use a new pan gasket.
    2. Install pan and tighten screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.).
    3. Install dust shield and bending brace to transaxle housing.
    4. Lower vehicle and install oil dipstick.
    5. Connect negative cable to battery.
    6. Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.

Mar 27, 2009 | 1998 Chrysler Town & Country

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