Question about GE Ovens

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Our GE JKP14 Oven's Burner Element caught on fire. A small bit of it. Turning the oven off did nothing, but once we turned off the circuit breaker the fire instantly went out.

Do we need to just replace the element? Or bring in an electrician to inspect the wiring?

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • GE Master
  • 40,764 Answers

Call in an electrician as turning off the switch should have stopped the fire
There may be a problem in the way it is wired up.

Posted on Apr 07, 2015

Testimonial: "When you say switch do you mean just pressing the 'Off' button? I mean we just turned off the circuit switch for the Oven only. That's when it turned off instantly, and the oven light went off. I think this oven's been in use for maybe 10-15 years."

  • 2 more comments 
  • Bill Boyd Apr 07, 2015

    ok the fire may have been form old fat/grease on the element that was burning because of the heat being produced by the failing element

  • Bill Boyd Apr 07, 2015

    turning of the switch for the oven reduces the heat source and so the fire went out

  • Bill Boyd Apr 07, 2015

    I will still suggest that you get an electrician in to replace the element and have the system checked out.

  • Anonymous Apr 07, 2015

    ok thanks for the advice!

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New element touching bottom of oven. Two small holes in over.


The element should not touch the bottom of the oven. I would call up the person that did the repair and tell them about the small holes. This may be a fire hazard. You should not be charged for work that was done improperly.

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Why oven not heating


Bad element, bad switch or other electrical problem. You could double check switch by turning on broiler element to see if that
gets hot. If so then either oven thermostat, or element. Did the circuit breaker pop off and then you reset? So there is a short somewhere, especially if it happens again. The above test with broiler element could verify power to oven. If it pops the
circuit breaker again. You need a service technician. Usually the oven requires a dedicated wire to the oven. Don't use the oven again until the problem is resolved. There's a slim possibility
that the circuit breaker needs to be replaced. How long did you use the oven? If a long time circuit breaker is more likely because
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What could cause this ? We have a Super Capacity 465, ceramic top oven. Everything appears to work properly except, when turned OFF, the surface heating indicator light for the left back burner remains on...



after pics see articles





Stove will not turn off CHECK


Temperature Control Thermostat


If the oven won't turn off the oven thermostat is often the cause of the problem. The electrical contacts inside the oven thermostat can weld themselves together and then the oven won't turn off. If this happens, turn off power to the entire appliance at the household circuit breaker or fuse. The oven thermostat usually cannot be tested and must be replaced if defective.

Oven Control Board


The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.

Relay board:
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!





Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

GAS OVENS
The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!





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Wont get hot


Most likely burned out heating element. Does the broil work? If your handy turn off the circuit breaker making sure power is truly off by turning on oven to verify it won't turn on. Remove the screws from the bottom heating element remove the wires and take it to your local appliance supply house, they might test it for you and they can surely sell you a new one just by the the shape alone.

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see this steps and fix it. God bless you

. Top element
If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the "Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the element and the receptacle.

You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if found defective.

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Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/rangeoven-repair-help.html#2-2#ixzz2aSmUeYiW
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

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Hi,when Element does not heat up correctly

1. Test for power to determine that the unit is receiving the correct voltages.
2. If the power voltages are correct and you have standard surface burner elements:
1. Test Surface Burner.
2. Test the Receptacle.
3. Test the Burner Switch.
3. If the power voltages are correct and you have solid-disc elements:
1. Test the solid-disc element.
2. Test the Burner Switch.
4. If the power voltages are correct and you have radiant heating elements:
1. Test the radiant heating element.
2. Test the Burner Switch.


1. Make sure the controls are set properly that the oven selector switch is set correctly and that the temperature switch is set to the desired temperature. Where applicable, make sure the oven timer is set to manual.

2. Make sure the oven door is slightly ajar as per your owner's manual.

3. If nothing else on the Range, Oven or Cooktop is working then:
1. Check the circuit breaker or fuse
2. Test for power

4. Test the broiler element.

5. Check the oven thermostat.

6. Check selector switch.

7. Check oven cycling relay.


REMEMBER YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS - USE EXTREME CAUTION .

Please if no experience, please contact a skillful personnel for assistance.

Thanks for using fixya..and please don't forget to rate me 100%.

Thanks.

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Elements wear out from the inside. Sooner or later it happens to all of them.

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