My 2001 aurora keeps blowing starter fuse!

this is not clear at all (is 3.4L engine my bet)
the starter is silent or not? if the starter motor spins the enigine crank shaft , fast that that is cranks ok not start engine.
no crank means. the crank shaft never spins
and that as a few causes,
blow fuse test them all?
crank in park and in Neutral too? N can work and P fail on any car.
no power to PCM fuse mean main power is dead main 12vdc power buss is dead. and that is much larger fuse even 100amps.
if you scan the PCM well that action will be dead. lacking PC power
so here is that power feed, battery must be 12.6vdc rested, not 10v
here we go ,2 paths dead, starter motor and PCM dead power.

Fuse link C blow out. GM gray coded,same goes fore Fuse a1/2 blown.
fuse link A, blown GM rust coded make alternator 100%^ dead and now the battery dead too ,lacking working ALT.
next is fuse link Z (GM gray) runs vast things.
I wonder what fuse is this PCM fuse as none are marked that.
there are 100 schematic to see, I am working throught them all to find PCM
are head lamps dead, are brake lamps dead?
head lamps work key off, so is always fix it first if dead.
fuse (Fa1/2 ) PCM/ABS fuse 10amps the a1 side is main power to this fuse. and this also kills dead the transmission range switch PRNDL and starter too dies.
So fuse A1 side is your critical failure point on this car.
so maxi fuse 40amps blew out from a short.
A1 FUSE GOES HOT KEY ON ONLY. (NO IMMO FAILURES IF HAS IT.
IF NOT a ign MAIN 1 FUSE 40AMPS IS BLOW
OR POWER TO MAIN ONE IS GONE.
mIAN1 IS WIRED HARD TO THE BATTERY MAIN
ALL MAXI FUSES ARE, SO IS BLOWN THAT FUSE OR THE KEY SWITCH IS BAD.(IN RUN)

Check all of the battery terminals and cables and check the wires on the starter/selonoid, start from the battery and follow the cable out and check all conections , clean and tighten them and if it still does it the starter/selonoid is bad and needs replacement...

No, year make or model. But if you blow the crank fuse, it is between the starter and the ignition switch. Could be the switch, but most likely the wire. At the relay there are four pins. 30 is B+ all the time, 87 is to the starter. 85 and 86 can be switched. But one is B+ with the key in start position, the other goes to the ECM, this would be ground.. Since you're blowing the fuse, you need to find the short to ground. this would be the 85 and 86 wires.

many things will cause no start problems could have faulty ignition switch.use test light see if power going to starter if not check ignition fuse to starter.if power going to starter, more likely starter solenoid or starter faulty.if ignition fuse okay and starter and solenoid okay still no start problem could be in the ignition switch or inhibitor switch faulty.code scan for faulty theft security system which will also cause no start conditions.

Try this video:

there are two things its either your battery or your starter

I am a mechanic,i had that same problem where my engine 20amp fuse were blowing....i fixed it...problem were a broken wire in the harnace on the side of the cylinder head....i made over $200 on that job...yahhh

The security system does not disable the starter, it only disables fuel to the engine. In the fuse block under the hood, locate the STARTER relay. Place your hand on this relay and see if it clicks while someone else turns the key to start...if the relay is ok then the starter itself is faulty. Good luck, i hope this helps.

This sounds like a bad starter,the first thing to do is have the starter checked,if you have a draw tester see how much its drawing, you can test small wire at the starter when you have key in the crank postion and theres power to small wire at rear of starter then i would say starter is no good,note; there are two wires at rear of starter, one battery cable that has full power at all times then the small wire that only has power when key is in crank postion.

experience says the starter is the likely culprit....it has a bad spot in it