Question about GE Dryers
Dryer model PCKS433ET1WW type MD2A with the WE25M27K element kit
GE Dryer design (Most or almost)....
Heating element access is from the front.
1. Remove the Front Door
2. Remove the belt.
3. Remove the Drum.
You see the heating element. Very simple design
Posted on Apr 25, 2015
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most heating elements can be accessed by removing the back cover of the dryer. Please unplufg the dryer first before starting this project.
Posted on Nov 09, 2007
SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts
that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
call your lp provider as they often will send out a tech to do this conversion for free. after all you will be buying the gas from them.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
SOURCE: GE DRYER HEATING ELEMENT
Yes, the whole drum needs to be removed:
Before you go trough this make sure you know for sure your elements need replacement by checking for continuity at both element terminals.
Make sure you do the same with your high limit thermostat on housing.
How to remove the drum?:
Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you begin to remove the drum. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Pull your dryer out from the wall. Behind it, on the bottom, you will find a lower panel that will give you access to the unit's belt tensioner (also known as an idler pulley arm). Remove the screws holding this panel in place, and then remove the panel itself. Reach inside and release the belt tension by removing the belt from the motor pinion.
Older GE dryer models have a small drum bearing inspection plate in the center of the back of the dryer. This drum bearing inspection plate provides access to the dryer's circlip (also known as an e-ring). This clip holds the rear drum shaft in place. Newer models do not have this circlip or the drum bearing inspection plate.
If yours is an older GE model with an inspection plate, remove the plate now. It will be held in place with a single screw. With the plate removed, you will be able to see the drum support shaft and the e-ring (circlip) holding the shaft in place. Use a small screwdriver to remove the e-ring. You may also want to use a magnet to keep the circlip from falling into the dryer. You will also find several metal and nylon shims between the bearing and the e-ring, inside the bearing, and between the bearing and the drum. Take careful note of how they come off so that you will be able to put them back on again in the right order.
Now remove the front panel of the dryer. There are a couple of different ways this is accomplished. Whichever method you use is dependent upon your model. Some older models have two spring catch clips under the cabinet top, one on the left side, and one on the right side of the front. Use a putty knife, or some other flat and thin object to wedge in under the cabinet top. Release both spring catches and lift the cabinet top off the dryer. In some newer models, there will be screws joining the cabinet front panel to the cabinet top. You will have to open the door in order to find these screws. Once they are found, remove them and then slide the cabinet top forward and lift it off the unit.
Next, there are two screws located in the bottom of the front panel, one in each corner. Loosen these, but do not remove them just yet. Locate and remove the two screws at the top inside of the dryer's front panel. Again, there is one screw in each corner. Proceed to remove the other two screws you have just loosened. Disconnect the door switch wires and then lift the front panel off your dryer. With the front panel removed, lift the drum and slide it out of the dryer.
NOTE: In some models, you will have to remove the dryer drum glides before you can remove the drum. Also, now that the interior of your dryer is completely exposed, it might be a good time to vacuum out all of the dust and lint that has built up in there.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
First make sure that the gas valve is on. Then verify that the gas connector is not kinked or restricted. then remove the connector at the back of the dryer and make sure there is gas pressure. Then visually inspect the pipe at the back of the dryer. Use a flashlight to inspect inside the pipe and make sure there is no debris inside the pipe that could restrict gas flow. On this dryer there is no removable burner door cover on the front or inspection window so you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Once the panel is removed you can turn on the dryer. You should first hear a click sound. That is the first gas solenoid valve opening. Then the igniter should start to glow. Once the igniter reaches 2200 degrees the secondary gas solenoid valve should click and the burner will come on. If you do not hear a click when the dryer is first turned on you will need test the first gas solenoid valve. Make sure it is getting voltage with a fluke meter. You can also touch a piece of metal to the top of the valve and the top should be magnetized when active. If you hear the first click but no igniter glow then verify the igniter is getting voltage and test the igniter with a fluke meter. You will need to test the ohms and most should be 500 to 700 ohms. If the igniter does not get a good reading or none it is probably defective and needs replacement. Usually most places that sell appliance parts will test the igniter for free. Just because the igniter glows does not mean that it is good. It can glow but not reach the 2200 degrees needed for the proper operation. Now if the igniter is good and you hear a second click then there might be a restriction somewhere in the gas line between the solenoids or the gas orfice at the burner. The sensor Gort was talking about is the flame rectification sensor and can detect the flame. It is rare for this to be faulty but not impossible. If you get flame for a couple seconds and then it shuts off it could be this sensor. Blow the burner assembly and this area off with compressed air and lint can block the sensor's ability to detect the burner flame. Also I believe your dryer has a larger fan blower than standard dryers. If this blower motor is not working the rest of the system will not come on. make sure the assist fan is working and that the vacuum switch is working and not stuck. Also check the vacuum line is not disconnected or restricted. And always remember that there are exposed power connections inside the dryer that could shock you and cause injury. use caution and if you do not feel comfortable working on this you might want to call a professional.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 09, 2012 | GE DRSR483EGWW Dryer
Dec 02, 2012 | Hotpoint Dryers
Sep 07, 2011 | Dryers
Apr 11, 2010 | Dryers
Feb 20, 2010 | GE Dryers
Dec 22, 2009 | Dryers
Apr 08, 2009 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...
150 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: