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Why does my ice maker line keep freezing up? Replace the water valve about 5 times already and now the fan is making a loud noise unless I turn the temp to 42.

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 5,323 Answers

You have a defrost issue?
Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!








Posted on Apr 08, 2015

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1 Answer

GE side by side refrigerator-freezer daily makes loud grrrrrnng noise. Sporadic. Comes from area just above ice maker. Makes no difference if I turn ice maker off. Any ideas what is causing this?


Many ice maker sporadically turn to keep ice from freezing together and becoming a solid block of ice. This would occur even if the ice maker is turned off in order to keep the ice already made from freezing. It is generally short and not that loud. I'm surprised you find it disturbing.

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Makes no ice

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Ice maker won't make ice


most times I see the tray and fill tube ice up its due to a leaky fill valve , this valve should close tight after filling tray , but sometimes they leak just slightly then everything freezes up in a block of ice

fill valves on most all units is located in back lower left corner , just follow the water line in the back of unit

Jan 15, 2016 | True Refrigerators

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I have a Scotsman CME 506 ice maker. After running a cleaning cycle it won't run. After resetting the freeze light blinks and nothing happens. The water inlet valve never opens (the sump is current


CM3 Operational Sequence.
From Off, push and release the freeze button.
1. If sump is full,water pump starts.If sump is not full,water valve opens to fill it.
2. Compressor starts when sump is full.Air cooled fan motor starts too.
3. water pump stops early in freeze cycle for 30 seconds.
4. Sump refills after pump starts.
5. In low ambient condition,fan motor may begin to cycle on and off.
6. Freeze continues until water level in sump drops to preset point. Exceptions: SCE275 must fill sump two more times.
7. Fan may shut off before the end of freeze.
8. Harvest begins. Hot gas valve opens,pump stops.
9. Pump restarts, inlet water valve opens to fill and overflow the reservoir.
10. Harvest continues for preset first cycle harvest time.
11. If bin is not full, cycle repeats ( compressor stays on). If bin is full, unit shuts off at the end of harvest.
OK with that out of the way unless you unplugged any wires cleaning the machine should not have caused any problems. First cut off water and pull water supply line from water inlet valve look in the end of valve there is a screen in there it could be stopped up. If the valve screen is not stopped up then put supply water line back on and turn water back on. power the CM3 controller off. push freeze button. now with a voltage meter check at the water inlet valve to make sure you are getting power to the valve.If you are then either valve is stopped up or valve is bad. If you are not getting power to valve then replace the CM3 controller now make sure the bin full light is not on because if it is this will not let controller go back to a freeze cycle.

Oct 28, 2014 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Whirlpool ED5VHEXVQ03 side by side. Ice maker is not making ice. Checked water line - okay. Checked water valve - okay. Water filling tray - okay.


Whirlpool Ice Makers are about the hardest working part on your refrigerator and their average life is about five years. You can fill the tray with tap water if the ice slots are already empty and let the water freeze. If after the water freezes and the ice drops to ice bin then the water control valve.

Click Here=> 4389177 Water Inlet Valve will need replaced. You mentioned the water is filling the tray OK then my focus would be on the ice maker.
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Click Here=> W10190965 Ice Maker Assembly

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Most times it is less expensive to just replace the ice maker module. Here is a helpful video that helps explain everything about the Whirlpool Ice Maker below. If you find this solution helpful please rate my solution, Thanks Sea Breeze



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1 Answer

Not making ice, making a loud humming noise its a top freezer RT18BMXBL01


The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice:--Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
The ice maker is producing ice poorly :--When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.
Noise can come from these areas:
The inside of the freezer :--Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.
If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.
Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.
The outside back of the refrigerator:--There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.
If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.
The bottom of the refrigerator:--Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”
This will help.thanks.

Feb 21, 2010 | Roper Refrigerators

1 Answer

1. My fridge is making a loud clicking noise at


If there is ice in the icemaker and its not ejecting the ice you more than likely have a bad heater in your icemaker not heating the cubes for the rake to scoop them out. No water through the door would probably be a separate issue. If its a GE they are known for poor insulation on the freezer door and the water line will freeze going up the inside of the door. If you remove the kickplate there will be a quick connect coupler. remove it from the line going up the door and call for water. If you get water to this point you know the line is frozen through the door. If not then you will want to check your saddle valve for calcium deposits gunking it up. Least common issue would be a bad water valve.

Jan 09, 2010 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

1 Answer

My freezer compartment is making a loud vibrating noise. The ice maker is not working, the water freezes on the inlet ramp to the cube maker. What gives?


The vibration is usually an unballance, check the freezer fan blade for any broken pieces. The water freeze will cause the Ice maker to not work..if the fill valve for the ice maker leaks, even a small bit it will freeze up on that "inlet ramp" if so, replace the fill valve. Else, I've found a unit not used, left alone for a week or more.. that tube still freezes up...gets too cold?

Oct 24, 2009 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fan keeps making loud rumbling noise


probably not tied in with each other, would change the fan and probably jump the water valve with 110 volts and see if you get water if not then change the water valve if so change the ice maker, whirlpoolpartssurplus.com

Jun 23, 2009 | Whirlpool ED2FHSS Side by Side...

1 Answer

Ice maker freezing up


If it is only the fill tube that is freezing up, or getting full of ice, than your water valve is leaking (letting drops of water thru to your ice maker and filling the icemaker fill tube up and freezing). If this is the case, replace the dual water valve (part # 1071263) located in the back of the refrigerator, just follow the water line from your wall into the refrigerator. Make sure you turn off the water to the refrigerator and also unplug it. The dual water valve is the one that has two water lines, one going to the icemaker and one going to the water dispenser. On this model, I think you only have one water valve. On some you have two, the primary water valve and a secondary water valve (the dual valve). If this is your case, I would highly recommend you replace both. As far as the Refrigerator side freezing things up, I think that is a whole different issue. Please post back.

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