Question about Zanussi Washing Machines
Hi,the door seal is held in place with a wire with spring on it,just open door get hold of rubber witch is attatched where door closes,
if you pull on the rubber at the edge you will see the wire you will have to get a flathead screwdriver to prise it out,once you take the metal band off just pull the rubber off,then if you pull on the rubber the inside bit of the rubber will come out.
hope this was some help.
Posted on Apr 06, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: rubber seal removal
There is a spring at the bottom center of the door gasket. Stretch that out and a wire will come off from around the gasket you can then pull the gasket off and reach in. Be sure you get the gasket back on all the way and the wire right or it will leak. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
Remove the lid and loosen the band internally holding gasket to tub, from the top. The front come off easily once the retaining band is removed. Just reversed the process to put on the new rubber.
Posted on Dec 09, 2009
1. Remove door (2 screws).
2. remove top (2 screws at back, sharp slap to front to dislodge).
3. Remove 2 screws holding powder dispenser to inlet valve.
4. Remove 2 screws at front corners securing fascia.
5. Remove fascia and powder dispenser as a unit - note plastic locating pegs on underside and plastic clips locating bottom onto front panel. Take care not to drop one of the rubber seals from valve/powder dispenser joint. Do not disconnect the wiring, just lay the complete assembly on top of the machine.
6. At some point, you will need to release the retaining wire securing the seal to the front panel. This is a thin spring loaded wire. Look after it, you will need it again.
7. Remove two screws at front securing front panel.
8. Remove kick panel - this allows access to two more screws securing bottom of front panel - take these out as well.
9. unclip the wire connector to the door switch.
The front panel may now be lifted from its plastic retainers.
10. The second wire clip can now be removed. The clever clip will need to be released to allow refitting.
11. Thoroughly clean and disinfect the seating for the new seal - you don't want the same gunk growing into the new one straight away.
12. On the drum, you will notice a protruding moulding at about 5 o'clock. There is a matching flange on the seal to help you locate it accurately - start here and fit the seal.
13. Fit the wire retainer - you will need a good pair of long-nose pliers to retension the wire.
14. Reassemble the machine in the reverse order - take care not to mix up the screws! remember to fit the seal to the front panel before refitting the door. Do not release the spring from the wire, carefully stretch it into place.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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