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Re: I replaced my PTO drive belt (engine to blades, part...
Check all idler pulley bearings, double pulley bearings and the spindles bearings. If any feel rough hand turning replace them. Also make the spindle belt is correctly routed. Edited adding the word "belt"
The 60.5" belt is the correct for the G deck that uses the 66.5" spindle deck belt.
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Safety and Preparation
Serious injury can occur if the engine or mower blades accidentally start while you are working with lawn tractors. To prevent this, drive the Murray lawn tractor onto a flat work surface and disengage the mowing deck cutting blades. Engage the parking brake to keep the mower from moving; chock the wheels with a wooden block or brick. Adjust the mowing deck to the lowest position. Turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition. While not necessary, you may even wish to disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug.
Mowing Deck Removal
You must remove the mowing deck on a Murray lawn tractor to gain access to the belts. Remove the adjustment rod hairpins, followed by the adjustment rod pins from the front left and right sides of the mowing deck. At the rear on the left and right sides, pull out the retaining hairpins and slide the mowing deck suspension links from the adjuster plates to separate the rear mowing deck from the frame. Remove the blade control rod stud, including the hairpin and washer, from the top of the blade control lever shift linkage at the left rear of the deck. Remove the front hanger rod, including the hairpin and flat washer that hold the rod in place. Loosen the belt guide retaining bolts with a socket wrench and remove the engine stack pulley belt so you can slide the mower deck out from under the tractor
Transmission Drive Belt Installation
Slide the new transmission drive belt between the engine stack pulley belt guides, over the belt guide plate and under the engine stack pulley. Fit the transmission drive belt around the top engine stack pulley. Push the free end of the transmission drive belt up through the transmission shifter hole in the lawn tractor floorboard. Slip the transmission drive belt loop over the transmission shifter. Pull the transmission drive belt down through the transmission shifter hole. Fit the transmission drive belt around the transmission drive pulley and tighten the transmission drive pulley belt guide retaining bolts to hold it in place. Fit the transmission drive belt flat side around the idler pulley. Slide the idler pulley onto the idler pulley stud while holding the belt in place. Tighten the transmission idler pulley retaining nut with a socket wrench to secure the idler pulley to the idler pulley stud.
Mowing Deck Drive Belt Installation
Pull back on the right side mowing deck mandrel pulley spring-tensioned belt retainer. Guide the new mowing deck drive belt around the right side mandrel pulley and release the belt retainer. Pull the drive belt spring-tensioned retainer away from the mowing deck idler pulley, guiding the deck drive belt around the idler pulley. Fit the mowing deck drive belt around the left side mandrel pulley and under the rear mowing deck cross link rod between the right and left side mandrel pulley. Slide the mowing deck under the right side lawn tractor frame, reconnecting the deck to the frame in reverse order of removal. Engage and disengage the mower deck while driving the mower to test the belt for proper operation.
I've two possibles come to mind for you to check.
1) Engine OFF - Make sure that all of the blades and pulleys can turn freely.
2) Engine OFF - Double check belt routing. Move engage lever ON/Off and look at what movement happens. It may be that the belt is on the wrong side af a mounting flange and binds when engaged.
I sounds like there's significant resistance to the engine turning over. I experienced this when the electric PTO/clutch seized - and the mower was trying to turn over the engine AND the mower blades because the PTO wasn't disengaging. Try taking the mower belt off the PTO and see how the engine turns over. If it's still slow, the problem is in the engine. If it spins normally, replace the PTO clutch. BTW - when my clutch seized, it also burned out the PTO switch. The switch is pretty inexpensive, so if you're replacing the PTO/clutch (I found one online for about $175.00 - MUCH more expensive at the dealership) - you should probably replace the switch as well.
Hi, check your belt tension, check all idler pulleys and drive pulleys for free rotation with the belt off and finally check that the belt is not bottoming out in any of the drive pulleys. If so, replace the belt. The blades should come up to speed imediately wether hot or cold and it sounds like your belt is slipping in one or more of the pulleys which drags the motor revs down until it grips. Regards Phil.
One or more of your drive belts is in need of adjustment or replacement, maybe. Possibly, your electric (or manual) PTO clutch could also be adjusted. You do have the spring tensioner on the deck engaged, right? You say the engine doesn't bog when this happens so I am inclined to think "clutch" and/or "PTO belt" to the deck and/or the "deck tensioner" are the things to check.
The tensioner will be the easiest, it is a handle on the left side ON the deck. Has a BIG spring on it. Make sure it is engaged.
Is yours a Troy Bilt manufactured in Troy New York or is it another manufacturer (MTD?). Troy Bilt is actually out of business, having sold the Troy name to a variety of makers depending on the model line. I don't have the run down on who makes what any more (tillers, chippers, mowers, blowers, trimmers, etc.), but Troy Bilt of Troy, NY is no more. :-(
I have a 16 HP Troy with 42 inch deck driven through a electric clutch. I also have a "grass pump" on my deck. Important maintenance tips: Keep the bearings greased, keep the deck clean underneath. The belt on the deck should have the tensioner released when you are NOT mowing. Keep the blades sharp and in good repair. Mow with engine at full speed. When you get to areas of heavy growth, slow the tractor down (hydro drive) or reduce to a lower gear (gear drive). NEVER adjust speed using the "clutch" (hydro drive or gear drive). When you engage the blades (electric or manual) always have the engine just above idle, bring the engine speed up slowly to preserve the belts and reduce stress on all components.
I am sure this is the fix for your trouble. If there is anything else or if I missed the ball, please let me know and we will go further.
Ranch King is a brand name of the manufacturer MTD.
Product manuals with part blow-up diagrams are available from MTD's web site, http://www.mtdproducts.com/ Models are identified from the model number printed on a label under the mower seat.
The PTO and deck drive belts are shown on one diagram and the transmission drive belt is shown on another. The Form number on my printed Operator's Manual is 770-10526A (22HP, 46in cut) for Hydrostatic 817/818 models.
Parts can be ordered directly from MTD or other distributors on the web.
It is my experience that original brand name MTD belts work best.
The 22HP, 46" mower deck Ranch King Pro has 3 belts:
The drive belt which runs from the engine pulley back to the hydro drive unit to provide over-the-ground propulsion is part #754-0349.
A mower has either an electric PTO or a manual PTO, not both.
The electric PTO belt the provides power to the blade deck (runs around the electric clutch on the engine shaft (activated by electric switch, not the mechanical hand lever that engages the mower deck) is p/n 754-0476 for the 46" deck.
The manual PTO belt the provides power to the blade deck (runs off the pulley on the engine shaft (activated the mechanical hand lever to the left of the steering wheel that engages the mower deck) is p/n 754-0228 for the 46" deck.
The deck belt that goes around the 3 blade spindle assemblies on the mower deck, to drive the grass cutting blades is p/n 754-0349
In my experience, the PTO belt lasts about half a season, the other belts break about every other season when mowing 4 acres weekly.
Most likely what you did was burn one or more spots on the belt. When the blades and belt stop turning, like in tall grass, the engine doesn't stop and will burn flat spots on the belt at the engine pulley. Every time the flat spot hits a pulley, it will jump and can set up a bad vibration. Run your hand around the sides of the belt or take it off and you will feel or see the thin spot(s) on it. Replace belt.