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How do I change the motor drive belt on a Bernina 1030?

Are any special tools needed to access the belt, to reassemble or to retension it? Is the belt a standard industrial part that can be obtained from a normal commercial supplier?

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  • 47 Answers

Adjustment: The stepped pulley support/frame has two 5mm fixing screws on the lower end of the frame and a plastic screw on the upper frame end. Early models had a third screw on the upper side of the frame. By loosening the screws slightly, push the stepped pulley and frame frame toward the loosened side and then let go,...tighten the screws. The frame tension spring is generally sufficient to adjust the belt tension. However, you may want to add a little tension but do not load too tight as you can cause stress on the motor or damage the front motor shaft bearing.
If a belt is needed, you can find them from local companies dealing in bearings, pulleys and drive components, i.e. Kaman Industrial etc. If memory serves me correctly the belt type is MXL, 250mm length, 5mm wide. The outer side of the belt has information to tell you the type. If you want to find one online go to

Posted on Jul 08, 2015


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: how to change belt on bernina overlocker

Carole... I recommend taking the overlocker in to have this done. If it's not done properly you could break a looper or worse with it being out of time. Better to have the belt replace and while you are at it have it cleaned, lubed and adjusted. ;)

Posted on Sep 05, 2012

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SOURCE: How do I remove the broken needle and replace it on my Union Special industrial overlocker? Do I need a special tool / spanner ?

What is the model number of your machine? But the needles are likely fastened with a small screw. Do you have a small screwdriver? That will likely do the job.
When you take the old needle out, watch which way the flat part of the needle is inserted. That makes it easier to insert the new needle. A mirrow may help you. (But rememeber it is reversed in the mirror!)
That machine looks to be a good quality machine from what I can find.
Does you machine have curved needles? If so, it may use a small nut to hold the needles.
Hope that helps.

Posted on Oct 04, 2014

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How do I remove the top on a Bernina 807 in order to chnage th elong belt ?

V-Belt replacement 801/801 Up Machines

Only the belt cover needs to be removed for this belt change. This is done by removing the three screws on the end/belt cover. Loosen the 5mm Allen socket head screw below the step pulley to relieve the belt tension. Remove the lower motor belt. Lift the step pulley and slide off the hand-wheel, (assuming that you have already removed the release knob and clutch ring).

Additional top cover removals 807/801 Minimatic machines

Early 807 machines had two expansion nipples in the top cover that fit into receptor holes in the upper arm frame. Simply pull up the top cover.

Very late models may have a push button latch mechanism, same as on the 801 machines except those fitted with carrying handles, i.e. 801 Sport, 810 machines.

This is accessed by opening the light cover and finding an aluminum knob in the upper left hand corner of the upper arm frame. Push this in and the cover will release. Lift off the top cover.

Sep 10, 2015 | Bernina Sewing Machines

2 Answers

My Bernina 1130 has a high pitched squeak which seems to be coming from the handwheel area .. any tips to cure it. Machine sews perfectly but it's a very annoying noise.

R A Ellis, any answer might be good enough for you to climb the ratings but it is not specific to the machine model and worse than that is misleading. Generally not helpful.

To Anonymous, your machine does not have the oil holes referred to by RA Ellis: ignore that answer.

What follows is me working on a Bernina 1030 which is very, very similar in this area. An 1130 is slightly fatter at the front to accommodate the electronics on the front panel.

The most likely source of the noise is the idler pulley that links the motor to the rest of the machine. It's perfectly possible to fix this squeak yourself. You will need flat bladed screwdrivers (6mm and 4mm tips are what I used), a thin bladed screwdriver (not a narrow blade but a thin one - see below), a clean rag or tissue, sewing machine oil, and possibly a set of feeler gauges if you want to be really "techy".

Put soft cloth on bench, stand machine on end (don't knock it over). Pull off the two small knobs - don't use a screwdriver to lever them off or you will mark the plastic. Prise out the hand wheel end cover - use your fingernails if possible or possibly the corner of a credit card. Avoid hard edged metal for the same reason as before.
Remove the screw in the centre of the hand wheel (above) and pull out the drive lever: you may need to just prise it up a little at the centre to release it. Pull off the hand wheel. Set the parts aside (below).
Remove the small screw under the hand wheel (above) and the two similar screws underneath (below), all of which retain the end cover. Remove the end cover.
The picture below, from a 1030 shows how the small captive nut is held in the end cover. The 1130 has two. The plastic is not strong so care needed when tightening during reassembly.
Removal of tensioner:
The rather poor picture below shows the 1030 tensioner assembly and tensioning spring. Insert a thin bladed screwdriver between two coils near the bottom and stretch the spring A LITTLE so it can be unhooked. You can remove it from the other end if you wish but don't drop it into the machine.
Using a decent size screwdriver (6mm or a bit bigger), slacken the three big retaining screws that hold the tensioner and remove them all with the washers - don't drop them into the machine. The screws may feel quite tight. Set aside. Disengage the two belts and remove the tensioner assembly (below).
You can see the pulley and you could oil it now. If so, oil BOTH SIDES of the pulley wheel and blot up the excess. One decent drop on each end will suffice. Use sewing machine oil. You will hear Tri-Flow oil recommended by many but this stuff is uncommon in Europe. If in the USA this may be a good choice but I've no personal experience of it. Don't use WD40 or similar - just sewing machine oil.

But if you've come this far:
You can dismantle, clean and make a better job of oiling the assembly. Grab the pulley and try to slide it along the shaft - there's a small amount of end float (I think the Yanks might refer to this as "lash"). You can measure it with a feeler gauge if you have one - I just felt it as the exact amount is not critical - it can't be more than a couple of thou (0.002").

Slacken (half a turn) the grub screw that holds the retaining collar in place and remove it, remove the tufnol washer, the pulley, the tufnol washer and wipe the parts with a clean cloth. Clean the inside of the pulley and notice that the steel plain bearing is in two parts - this is why you need to oil both sides. Replace the washer and the pulley, oil both sides and wipe off excess. Replace the other washer and retaining collar. Tighten the grub screw and make sure that there's a little end float like before. This is important. Check pulley spins freely. The oil will cause some drag.
Hold the tensioner roughly in place and slip the two belts onto the pulley, small belt from the motor first. Put all three fixing screws/washers into place and screw down until very lightly nipped and then back out a quarter to half a turn. Attach the spring to the tensioner and relocate it on it's pin the same way as you took it off.

Retension the drive belts:
Make sure the tensioner fixing screws are not nipping the tensioner. Put the hand wheel onto its shaft but do not fix it. You should be able to move the tensioner around. Rotate the hand wheel a few revolutions and the tensioner will settle into the correct position. Tighten all three screws securely, being mindful that they are going into an alloy casting. That is to say tight but don't strip the alloy thread. Remove the hand wheel.

Refit cover and knobs:
Refit the end cover and again, don't over tighten the screws, particularly this on the bottom. Refit the hand wheel, drive lever and fixing screw. Replace the knobs.

This has taken longer to write than the job takes to do!

Hope this helps. Applies to 10xx series, 11xx and probably the 12xx. Old 9xx similar enough in principle too.

Feb 26, 2015 | Bernina Sewing Machines

2 Answers

Board bernina 1030

As you will have noticed, you cannot open the end of a Bernina 1030.

There are two light bulbs on this machine, visible on either side of the needle bar and presser foot shaft. Viewed from the rear of the machine, you can see the one on the right but the one on the left is beneath a transparent plastic cover that slides out easily (but does not come right out).

To remove either of the bulbs, which are a bayonet fit, open the accessories box attached to the rear of the machine and take out the screwdriver tool from the top row, on the left hand side by the bobbin storage. One end of the screwdriver is a screwdriver (!) and the other end has a plastic tube - this is designed to grip the bulb.

Place the plastic tube on the end of the bulb, push a little and rotate anti-clockwise about a quarter of a turn to release the bulb.

The bulbs are both 6 Volts, 4 Watts. board-bernina-1030-yfctketow5dlawzorpkxttl4-1-10.jpg

Jun 29, 2014 | Brother SE350 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Bernina 1030 needle not moving up or down

I believe the 1030 has a basting stitch, similar to the 930 Record. If the basting stitch is not run regularly, it may lock up the machine requiring a technician's expertise to get it working again.

Mar 31, 2013 | Bernina 1008

1 Answer

My bernina 1030 won't feed material

Make sure the feed dogs are in the raised position and that the presser foot has been lowered before beginning to stitch.

Feb 11, 2013 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How can I take the back of my bernina 1030?

Bernina 1030 Service Manual Page 5

If you click the tiny page pictures on this page they expand. Page 5 discusses taking off the back.

Jun 17, 2017 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to change belt on bernina overlocker

Carole... I recommend taking the overlocker in to have this done. If it's not done properly you could break a looper or worse with it being out of time. Better to have the belt replace and while you are at it have it cleaned, lubed and adjusted. ;)

Aug 08, 2012 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Foot pedal not working on bernina 1030 but there is power to the machine (the light comes on)

The problem with you bernina is coming from the circuit board located on the back of the machine, there ar e a couple of fuses you might want to replace, if you change out the fuses and still no power the board will need to rebuilt aprox cost$150.00

Apr 21, 2010 | Bernina Sewing Machines

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