Question about Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer
Posted by Anonymous on
"lc" may mean "load capacity" meaning too much weight in the drum. Wash time may be variable, and the load amount too! Experiment with you "wash time" feature, it may be for lighter loads ONLY. Get a user guide for your machine would be my call.....
Posted on Apr 17, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: maytag washer door boot
Remove 2 screws holding door hinge to cabinet and remove door. Then remove 2 screws opposite these. Grab front panel with thumbs at area of screws you removed and pull outward with thumbs. Panel will pivot forward. Remove panel from lower clips. At top of exposed area remove 2 5/16 screws. Remove brackets under them.
Open dispenser and remove 4 screws. Careful not to drop in dispenser. Remove dispenser frame assembly.
You can now raise top of washer to a 90 degree position.
Now back to front exposed area. Grab boot where it contacts front and peel out of groove. Also remove two screws holding light assembly and remove cover. Remove all 5/16 screws holding front assembly and the ones on top area where it is on a bevel. Remove front assembly by folding up and onto top.
Now we are at the boot. Remove spring and wire assembly holding boot to drum. Make note on boot position and spring position. Remove boot. Install new boot onto drum. wrap wire around drum with ends at top. Now the fun! Hook spring to on end of wire and using vise-grips, pull to other end to hook into wire. It can be done, honest.
Now just reverse to reassemble. should be instructions with boot. Good luck!
Posted on Oct 21, 2007
Maytag Appliances are ****!! Don't buy Maytag. Spent $2500.00 in 2005 on Maytag Neptune washer and dryer. They have been nothing but trouble. Washer has water running in tub constantly. Recall on ground and recall on footing. Dryer making loud noise when drying clothes.The Maytag man is dead and gone.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
HI, this error code is signaling an issue with the fill actions. Your washer seems to be having problems when it try's to fill the tub with water.
First, make sure there's water getting to the washing machine. Make sure the water faucets are open all the way.Check for kinked hoses as well.
If the hoses are fine and, the faucets are fully open, this will confirm a inlet water valve malfunction. you will need to replace this failed component in this case. it has failed.
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
I owned a maytag neptune washer and had to run dishwashing liquid thru it occasionally to get the smell to go away. Finally we learned about a new gasket retrofit that they were doing which was covered by the maytag company we called and they installed it for free and the smell stopped. I had that washer for about 10 years and probably spent as much fixing it over the years as it cost. I now have a whirlpool duet front loader and love it. no smell and not problems. Try the electric dish washer soap.
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
SOURCE: will drain but wont spin
I just had exactly the same problem. It turns out that the washer thought it was "continuously out of balance" because the inertial unbalance switch was not working properly. The way I fixed it was:
1. I followed the instructions to disassemble the Neptune washer found here: http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm and then in the control panel on top I found actually a very useful document stored in the control panel itself. It is called "Schematic Mini-manual LED Washer" and it contains a set of schematics for the electrical system and an explanation on how to run various diagnostics on the washer. This was incredibly helpful.
2. I checked the diagnostic code using the following procedure:
a. Plug the washer in for power.
b. Put the washer into "Service Mode" by holding the "Delicates" and "Heavy soil" keys simultaneously for 3 or more seconds. My washer showed a "00" on the screen when it was in Service Mode.
c. Pushed "Presoak" to put it in diagnostic code mode.
d. Pushed the down arrow key to read out the last diagnostic code. In my case the most recent diagnostic code was a "05", which the mini-manual says means "Continuous unbalanced circuit". In fact the mini-manual also says to "Check for: Faulty unbalance switches, Loose wire connections, Bad control board".
e. To find out how many cycles ago this happened, you can push the "Cotton/sturdy" button and it will tell you how many cycles ago this happened. I can't remember the response of my washer, but it either showed a "00" or "01".
To double check the diagnostic code, I
a. Cleared the list of diagnostic codes by holding the "Heavy soil" and "Presoak" buttons for 3 seconds while in the "Diagnostic code" mode;
b. Put the washer door back on and screwed it in without putting the entire front back on the washer.
c. Pushed the "off" button or unplug the washer and plug it back in to get it out of "Service mode".
c. Ran just the spin cycle, where it counted down to 7 and then was perfectly silent and then displayed a "00" without really trying to spin.
Double checking the diagnostic code probably wasnt' really needed, but I thought I would try it just to make sure. I did receive the "05" diagnostic code again.
3. With the washer unplugged again, I did the following to check that the switches were the problem, I checked the resistance of the circuit that has the following three switches in it: the inertial unbalance switch, the low tub displacement switch, and the upper tub displacement switch. If the circuit has effectively "0" Ohms of resistance, the switches are good. If you effectively have "infinite" resistance, then one of the switches is bad.
The mini-manual shows you where the switches are physically on the washer. The easiest way to check this is to find a connector that connects the three switches to the control panel. I found this by lifting the top panel of the washer up all of the way so I could access the top of the washer's tub. Based on the schematic from the mini-manual, the in-line connector has four wires. One side you will find a red wire with the number "23" on it and an orange wire with the number "40" on it. The other half of the connector has two blue wires connected to it, one with the number "23" on it and one with the number "40" on it. In my washer, this connector was placed on top of the washer toward the back.
To test to see if one of the switches is not working:
a. Disconnect the inline connector described above.
b. Test the resistance between the two terminals on the side of the connector having the two blue wires. I found that when I did this I had infinite resistance, so want of the switches was stuck open, indicating the "unbalanced " condition.
To find which switch was at fault, I disconnected each switch from the circuit and tested each one individually. The one that was easiest to get to was the lower tub displacement switch, which is in the front on the bottom of the washer's tub. It worked fine (0 Ohms resistance normally and infinite resistance when you push the button). The next I tried was the inertial unbalance switch, which is placed on the top, right, front of the tub just underneath the block of concrete that is mounted on the tub. For convenience, I removed the concrete block so I could easily access and remove the switch.
This was the switch with the problem (it was effectively stuck open or infinite resistance). It seems to have some rod of metal in it that moves back and forth with the washers motion, so I just shook it vigorously and you could hear the rod of metal move back and forth. This seemed to free up the switch mechanism and the switch functioned again (showed "0" ohms when it was held in about the same position as it would be on the washer). I put the switch back in place and checked the connector with the blue wires leading to all three switches as before. This time I received effectively "0" Ohms, meaning that the problem was fixed.
4. At this point, I put everything back together again (concrete block, reconnected the in-line connector to the switches, and reversed the procedure found in http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm ).
Once everything was back together again, I tested just a "spin" cycle and everything worked. You could also test this before putting things back together (probably a good idea) by temporarily putting the door on properly and trying a "spin" cycle.
Another thing to note, you could actually check the diagnostic codes and run several of the tests without taking the entire washer apart. Basically, all you need to do is get the mini-manual out of the control panel (I there are 6 screws total I took off) and run the tests before opening the rest of the washer.
In the end, it might be good to clean or lubricate the inertial unbalance switch or replace it since it will probably stick again. Unfortunately, I am not sure how it is built, so I am not sure what the best way to clean or lubricate it is. Just shaking it for the moment did the trick.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
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