Question about Dryers
If it is electric it has a heating element which over time corrodes and burns off one of the connections. The element will need to be replaced if that is the case. If you are electrically and mechanically challenged it will have to be replaced. On mine I got some screws and nuts and formed a loop on the burned off end of the element and fastened it down very tight and it worked that way for several years.
Posted on Apr 05, 2015
Check the thermostat and or element.........
Posted on Apr 05, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer tumbles but doesn't heat
When this happens, something has interrupted the heat source. Run the dryer for a couple of minutes to see if it gets hot. Be sure you don't have the dial or controls on a non-heat setting, such as "Fluff" or "Wrinkle Control." On an electric dryer, this may mean that the circuit breaker or fuse that controls the power has blown --check and replace or reset. Be aware that a dryer may have two breakers or fuses: the motor will run when one works, but the heating element requires both. On a gas dryer, recheck the control's setting to be sure it's not on a heat-free setting. Check the gas valve behind the dryer to be sure the gas supply is turned on. Also make sure the house's main gas valve is turned on. On an older dryer, make sure the pilot light is burning. If it isn't, re-light it. You can find directions HERE or in your owner's manual (pilot light instructions are often mounted next to the pilot light on the burner, too). Note: Most modern dryers have electronic ignition instead of a pilot light. If yours has electronic ignition and isn't heating, call a qualified repair person.
Posted on Jan 18, 2006
SOURCE: Dryer not tumbling
A broken belt is very common. If you hear the motor running, that's probably it. The dryer must be taken all apart to replace the belt. Hopefully instructions will come with the new belt. Routing the belt over the motor shaft and around the tensioner is always a challenge.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
You need an ohm meter to do needed checks. Unplug dryer from power,,, then look for sensors and locate the heat coils. Using the ohm meter, check each device by connecting meter to the posts ( your looking for an open curcuit) Note that when you touch the leads of the ohm meter together, the gage will move? This is closed condition, and if the needle did not move, this is called "open". When you find a sensor or heat coil that reads open, that part is bad.
Now make sure there is not a tripped breaker in the fuse panel of the house,,, because even though the dryer is 220 volt,,, 110 volt runs the tumble motor while the other 110 volt curcuit runs the heat side ( so one will work without the other)
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
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