Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
When it's supposed to spin, it rotates very slowly for a few seconds then stops, repeatedly, but pump works fine. Everything I could see on the drive portion is fine - no broken or slipping belts, no obvious stripped gears or strange sounds. I ran a diagnostic test from the technician's handbook and got the spin to work but not in any other mode. Running the washer as is leaves the clothes extremely soggy - need to solve this - please help! Model is Kenmore 11042722201, no history of the machine known. Update 4/9/15 - I have the washer up on blocks, and ran a test load of laundry. The agitating is almost non-existent (you can hear the motor trying, but it's barely moving) and the spin is no different than previously described. However, during the spin, I was able to manually coax the drum to spin in tandem with the motor running (or trying to run) and once it got up to speed the motor was able to keep it rotating at a normal spin. From this, it seems like the motor is just beat and doesn't have the power anymore - or there's a significant restriction like a sticky brake assembly as suggested below.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like a sticky brake assy. This type of brake is very tricky and should be checked be a service technician
It's possible to do it yourself but not recommended because of the 200 lb. pressure spring. Hope the diagram will help.
Posted on Jan 13, 2008
Sounds like you could have a bad motor coupling. When they go bad they usually shear off and will cause the drive motor to simply free spin and the tub will remain idle. The pump still works because it is driven by the front shaft of the drive motor. Here's how to check and replace:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.
8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.
9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Make sure you replace BOTH halves of the coupling even if one side appears good.
10. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.
11. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.
12. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.
13. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.
14. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
15. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
16. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
17. Reinstall console.
I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. The part is available at repairclinic.com. Just type in your model number in the Search Menu and it's located on the first page as item #1195967. Can't beat the price. Only $14 if you do it yourself!
Posted on Apr 01, 2008
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Posted on Jul 12, 2008
SOURCE: Broken Washer
it could be the direct drive coupling that connects the motor to the transmission. fill it up with water and see if it will agitate, if it will NOT agitate then it is a good chance that this is the problem.
worse case scenario is the transmission is bad, but this is unlikely.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
SOURCE: washer wont spin at end of cycle
Hi, it sounds like the coupler or lid switch is bad. Do you hear the motor running during these cycles?
If you do, the coupler has gone bad. Here are the instruction on how to change the coupler. Part# 285852
Normal 0 Removing the cabinet. UNPLUG the washer. There are two screws holding the control panel to the cabinet. Most models the screw are in front but, some models have the screws in back. They are on each end. Now raise the control panel up and let it rest on the hinges. Unplug the lid switch harness and locate the clips on each side (bronze in color) and release them.
Now the cabinet will lift off the frame and you can set it aside.
Normal 0 How to replace a coupler.
Now that the cabinet is out of the way, remove the pump from the motor and set the pump off to the side. Remove the two screws holding the clips on the motor and remove the clips. Unplug the motor harness and on some models you wil need to unplug the capacitor.
Now you will need to replace all three parts to the coupler. I use a ½” socket and a small hammer to force the coupler onto the motor and transmission shafts. Put the rubber part onto the coupler half on the transmission and then line up the post on the motor shaft with the holes on the rubber part and it should go on ok. Put the clips that hold the motor in place and plug in the harnesses.
Put the pump back on and the clips to hold it in place. Set the cabinet back on the frame. Make sure the lip on the front cabinet is under the front rail of the frame. Ease the cabinet on the frame making sure the two rear sides of the cabinet set down on the tabs of the frame.
Put the two clips back on that hold the cabinet and plug the lid switch back in. Fasten the control panel down and you are all set.
I know this is lengthy but I hope it helps. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on May 25, 2009
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