Question about Briggs Electrical Supplies

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I recently rebuilt nikki carb on briggs and Stratton storm responder and when I put carburetor back on it spews gas out of carb when I turn fuel on?

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  • Briggs Master
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Either cracked or damaged --or rebuilt incorrectly

Posted on Jul 08, 2017

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  • Briggs Master
  • 3,497 Answers

He Harry, its never fun when you work on something and its worse than when you started..
Take it to a qualified professional..

Posted on Jul 08, 2017


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Coleman 6250 Generator won't turn over

try removing the air filter and try starting if it dirty or to oily , no vacuum is created to pull the fuel into the carb

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

Testimonial: "I removed the air filter,then put air filter back on,it started for 2 mintes.I shut it off, but then allot of gas just spewed out of the air filter?"

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SOURCE: Generator with Briggs & Stratton,no gas is getting in carburetor

The needle valve may be stuck which would not let gas into the carb. I don;t think rebuild kits are too expensive. Pull the carb and take it to a lawnmower repair shop and they should have the parts. Before that though pull the bowl and make sure it has gas in it. If no then remove the fuel line and make sure gas flows from it. If no then could be the fuel shutoff valve is not operating properly or junk in the gas tank is obstructing the line.

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

  • 143 Answers

SOURCE: Briggs & Stratton motor- Model 422447 Type

most carbs have tiny little holes in them for gas to flow through and as gas runs through it leaves behind a deposit like scale or plaque on your teeth . It only takes a little scale in one of those holes to prevent the proper gas flow usually the bowl on the bottom of of the carb has two holes in the screw that holds the bowl on it is usually a 7/16 1/2 0r 9/16 screw new models are plastic and have a spring clip on them. remove the screw and see if the whole are blocked if they are get some carb cleaner and go to home depot and go to the welding section and look for a torch tip cleaner it looks like a round wire with ridges on it it is in a little aluminum case 1 inch wide 3 inches wide use that to clean out any holes . the build up in the carb will look yellow and come off with carb cleaner use a paper towel to rubb any thick stuff remember we are talking about a pin sized hole wont take much to clogg even i one particle of scale will close the hole . hope this helps write back for more questions

Posted on Mar 07, 2011

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: engine surges

Hi Johnny,
I think the heart of your problem lies with the ethanol content in today's gas. It has at the very least 10%. The problem with gas containing ethanol, it only has a shelf life of about 30 days. What happens is the ethanol absorbs water from moisture in the air. The ethanol and water bond together and have a higher density than the petroleum based gas on top. It is exactly like oil floating on water. When this happens the octane rating of your gas drops dramatically, that's problem number one. Problem number 2, let's say your generator has a 10 gallon tank. Each gallon containing 10% ethanol, 1/10th of a gallon times 10. After about a month or two in a humid area you have a full gallon of water and ethanol sitting on the bottom of your tank. The best generator in the world will not run properly with this garbage sitting at the bottom. Problem number 3 ethanol is a strong solvent, it will deteriorate your fuel line. It will gum up the inside and make the exterior brittle. I would strongly suggest that you replace the fuel line with Tygon or any other ethanol safe fuel line and replace or install an inline fuel filter.Check out the website to see if ethanol free gas is available in your area. Here are two products that I strongly recommend Sea Foam and Sea Foam Deep Creep. I would completely drain the tank on your generator, install the new fuel line, spray a liberal amount of Deep Creep into the fuel line and let it sit for about an hour. Then drain the fuel bowl, fill the fuel line again with Deep Creep and let it sit for a little while. With the fuel bowl off, you should be able to lift the float and have smooth action with the float pin, no sticking the Deep Creep should flow smoothly when the float is lifted, after this is done re-assemble the carburetor and attach the fuel line to the tank. Add enough gas to run the generator for about 20 minutes and then use the Sea Foam. I have had stunning results from Sea Foam, I am not affiliated with this product it just works great and that is why I recommend it so strongly. Try to get the spray can of Sea Foam because that will be the easiest way to get it into the carburetor while it is running. Bring the generator outdoors after you have added a little gas to the tank remove the air filter from the carburetor and start the engine. Spray the Sea Foam directly into the carburetor, do not spray so much that it stalls the engine. After a spray or two you will get a feel for how much you can spray without stalling. Now the fun begins. Sea Foam removes carbon fouling from the engine and cleans the jets in the carburetor and it does this incredibly well but it produces an amazing amount of smoke, this can be very alarming at first but do not worry this is absolutely normal. You will be stunned by how much carbon gets burned out. Close the windows in your house and tell your neighbors in advance so they don't call the fire department. There will be that much smoke. Intermittently spray and let the fouling burn out. Do this about four to five times then spray a bit in the gas tank and let the generator run until it is empty. After the generator is empty add a little Sea Foam to the crank case oil, read the can for the proper amount. Store the generator empty. Sea Foam has stopped valve tapping, erratic float problems, rough idles and hard starting issues for me, It is an amazing product. I know that the desire to have a full tank in the generator for when the power goes out is very strong but it will cause you nothing but grief in the long run. You are better off finding gas cans that are air tight, they will not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ethanol and you will have a much longer shelf life. When the power comes back on I use a kerosene pump to empty my generator and then I run the engine dry.By using this method I have an extremely dependable machine that starts on the first pull every time even after sitting for over a year.Sorry for being so long winded but this is what really works and for those that also read this post who are not mechanically inclined, the long winded explanation gives them a clearer idea on how to solve this problem. Good Luck,Michael Burke

Posted on Dec 02, 2011

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Jun 5, 2010 - Uploaded by IFIXIT4U
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No the round gasket doesn't do much at all...the gas should never fill that high.

Gas fills the bowl and gets into your oil because the Needle valve is not shutting off.
It's not shutting off because #1 the float is cracked and it sinks in the gas. #2 The needle valve is gummed up and not moving up when the float is trying to push it up into the seat.
#3 The Seat gets ruined buy leaving this terrible Ethanol gas in the machine all winter. The seat gets distorted so the needle vale doesn't fully close letting gas constantly run into the Carburetor and down the cylinder and into crackcase.
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Briggs and straton 205412-0187e1 runs on full choke only rebuilt carburetor due to surging now it only runs on full choke

This engine came with 2 different carbs. Walbro and Nikki. The Nikki carb has a very fussy float plate! I fight them often! Usually there is a problem with the odd gasket that lifts the flat plastic plate and causes a very low fuel float level in the carb so the only way it stay running is to have the choke on. The main fuel jet on both carbs is up inside the threaded area of the bowl nut. When the main fuel jet clogs...and it only takes a speck of something you also get the symptom of having to use the choke to keep it running.

Main fuel jet is item 117 Nikki or Screwed into item 142 Walbro of the of the above link depending on which carb you have.
The plate I am talking about on the Nikki carb is item 135. The fussy gasket is 137A.

THE threaded area is where all the main fuel supply is drawn from the float bowl. All that must be free of obstructions. Until this is clear and orifices / jets are not obstructed; your going to be running on choke....

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

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When the float in the carb sticks, it allows fuel to drain into the cylinder, that runs pass the rings into the crankcase. When the crankcase is full the pistons cannot go down, and the starter won't turn the engine. Drain all the oil gas mixture, and refill with proper oil. Replace float, needle and seat in the carb bowl. Throughly clean fuel passages, and bowl. If motor won't turn, remove spark plug and turn over engine a few times to remove gas oil mixture from the cylinder too.

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If the gas is higher that the carb it will not have a fuel pump. Have you unhooked the fuel at the carb to see if fuel is getting to the carb? If it is not you have a blockage in the tank or fuel line or a clogged filter. If fuel is reaching the carb you have a stuck needle.

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