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Removal of the blue plastic rest plate from base

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Russel hobbs 14546


if you want to open it up the screws are hidden, and you need to carefully prise off both the blue filling funnel at the rear, and the surround for the water spray nozzle at the front (knife or thin blade driver). Then you will meet a mix of pozi and anti-tamper screws needing a fork driver. The power supply for the blue LEDs is wrapped in a disconcerting gold coloured (mylar) pouch, and does not affect operation. The thermostat and the supply to the red neon light are all in the base plate with the element, the overheat fuse is in a "sausage" of sleeving P clipped to the baseplate. In our case this fuse had gone open circuit, and temporarily shorting this out restored normal operation until a spare could be located.

Apr 11, 2013 | Russell Hobbs Irons

1 Answer

Steam generator wetting clothes


Heating plate has come detached from the tank. You have to remove the base and tighten the bolts on the heat plate. This ensures that the necessary temperature can be reached and thus steam rather than water comes out. Unfortunately the base is secured with security screws (6 point star with centre hole) so you will need to get one of these to fix it. They are same as used to secure number plates and can be purchased on ebay or at car parts shop

Sep 01, 2012 | Tefal Pro Express GV 8120 Iron

1 Answer

TEFAL STEAM GENERATOR GV8460 NO STEAM IRON HEATS UP


The water is heated by a metal plate that is bolted to the metal water tank, operating in pretty much the same way as a domestic kettle, the plate being the element. The plate is fixed in place by 8 or so nuts onto studs that form part of the water tank and heated by passing electrical current into this plate. Over time the nuts come loose and consequently the plate is not in full contact with the water tank. This results in insufficient heat transfer and a failure to consistently reach the required temperature to create steam. Ultimately you will need to remove the plastic base of the unit to access the plate and re-tighten the nuts. You will need a small 6 star bit with the centre punched out to remove the base as it is secured with security screws. These are readily available on ebay as they are the same as those used to secure number plates.

Apr 27, 2012 | Tefal Pro Express GV 8120 Iron

1 Answer

How do I clean the Baseplate


Good day!


The easiest way to clean the base plate of your electric iron is to use a sand paper (P200) p200 is the number of the sand paper that you need to use..

Scrub gently it in the base of iron until the real color of the metal is appear..If the color of the metal is appear it means the metal base plate is cleaned and ready to use..


Thank you and I hope this simple information help you..

Jun 17, 2011 | Philips Irons

1 Answer

How should I store the iron when not in use, e.g. stand, lay down etc. Unable to find our instruction book, sorry Helen


After you finish ironing labour, disconect the power cord and let it cool down on it`s base before put it in the closet or where you place it until you need it again.

If the iron has steam, drain all the rest of water inside the plastic tank, otherwise the water could go out and wet surfaces, clothes and so on. Sometimes it is nasty.

If you have a wall mount, install it and use it!

I hope you may find this usefull

BR

Apr 20, 2011 | Tefal Irons

2 Answers

My Oreck Cordless Iron leaks constantly. What can I do to stop the leaking?


Find where the leak is coming from, and coat the leak or crack with silicone.

Jul 29, 2009 | Oreck Cordless Speed JP8100CA Iron

1 Answer

The iron leaks from the base when at rest (up


THAT SHOULD HAVE A WARRANTY. SEE THE STORE MGR. WHERE YOU PURCHASED IT.

Apr 22, 2009 | Rowenta DZ5080 Iron with Auto Shut-off

4 Answers

Iron not heating up...


I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:

- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.

I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.

I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.

Sep 30, 2008 | Oreck Cordless Speed JP8100CA Iron

3 Answers

Repair of Steam Iron


I just removed the two screws on the bottom of the cord winder and made the screws tight again, works like a charm.

Feb 17, 2008 | Irons

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