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I have replaced a bad starter & now when I turn on key I do not have dash lights/ignition switch or any electrical? I do have voltage to the solenoid.

I did have dash lights/ignition switch before replacing starter.

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Posting the engine and equipment can be helpful. But I agree with Sam Morris about the wiring starter mounted solenoid there is usually smaller gauge wire on one of the larger posts (some starters only have one large post of this style starter) and that wire needs to be on the hot post (the one with voltage at all times. Same thing can happen on the starting systems when remote solenoids are replaced.

Also check your main fuse as you could have accidentally blew it from an under intended grounding of live connection.

Posted on Apr 05, 2015

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Usually, there will be a loose connection in the wires. Look to see if you have a connector of wires that is loose, or partially unplugged, then push it together again.

Sometimes, when the wire have been moved around, the connector on the back of the instrument panel will slip off. Look to see that the connector to the instrument panel is on snug.

Look closely at the starter you took off and compare it to the new one you put on and see if there's a small wire that is not connected. Some of these will have a small wire that must also be connected on the solenoid.

Posted on Apr 05, 2015

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Why is it I turn key on no power to dash or starter?


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Hi Frank , what make vehicle ? Do you have any warning lights lit on the dash , SECURITY maybe ? Check engine light ? Did you check to see if there is battery voltage at the starter solenoid ? Did you check if there is A starter relay ?

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Wires on starter but wont start will start with screwdriver whats wrong


The solenoid on a starter receives voltage when you turn your ignition switch to the start position that tells it to activate the starter. When you use the screwdriver to start the car, you are basically bypassing the solenoid on the starter. Since the car won't start when you turn the key, this means that either the solenoid is bad and the starter needs to be replaced, or the solenoid is not getting the voltage from your ignition switch that tells it to engage the starter. You might be able to eliminate the ignition switch as the problem if you get somebody to hold the key in the start position while you check to see if there is voltage at the starter solenoid. If you have voltage there, the starter solenoid is most likely bad, and the starter needs to be replaced.

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Won;t crank


Hi, if the car engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger). Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay). Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).

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I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

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1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

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2 Answers

Engine will not turn over. lights, horn, everything else works, no clicks, no nothing, but it will not turn over.


You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?

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First check the battery terminals and connectors to make sure they are clean and free of corrosion. If all is well there you have a bad starter.(provided the starter wire connections are ok.)

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