- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1Lift the CBR onto its center stand. Unlock the seat latch
with the ignition key and remove the seat. Remove the clip screws from
the top portion of both seat rail covers, positioned below the fuel tank
and the seat, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the seat rail covers
away from the motorcycle's frame.
2Remove both bolts from the front of the fuel tank, using a
socket wrench and a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and prop it open
using the support rod on the motorcycle's frame. Reach under the tank
and unplug the fuel pump's wiring connector and all three hoses from the
bottom of the tank. Take note of hoses' locations before removing them
for reinstallation purposes. Pull the hairpin clip out from the support
rod's base. Unscrew the pivot bolt from the base of the fuel tank, using
a 10 mm socket. Lift the fuel tank off of the motorcycle.
3Unscrew the air box's mounting bolt from the frame's right
seat rail, using a 10 mm socket. Loosen the clamps securing the air
box's flanges to the carburetors' inlets, using a Phillips screwdriver.
Pull the air box towards the rear of the motorcycle to separate its
flanges from the carburetors.
4Loosen the clamps securing the carburetors to the motor's
intake manifolds, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the carburetors off
of the motor and out through the left side of the motorcycle's frame.
The carburetors will still be attached to the motorcycle by its throttle
and choke cables. Loosen the choke and throttle cables' lock nuts,
using a 10 mm wrench. Remove the cables.
5Hold the carburetors over a large container. Unscrew the
drain screws on the side of each carburetor's float bowl, positioned at
the very bottom of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. Allow
the fuel trapped within the float bowl to drain completely, then tighten
the drain screws.
6Flip the carburetor over, with the float bowls up, and place
it on a clear work space. Unscrew the bolts from the float bowls, using
a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the float bowls and their gaskets
away from the carburetors.
7Unscrew the pilot jet from each carburetor, using a
flat-head screwdriver. The pilot jet is placed to the left (with the
carburetor facing you) of the main jet in the center of the carburetor.
Screw a new pilot jet into place with a flat-head screwdriver.
8Reinstall the float bowls and their gaskets onto the
carburetors. Tighten the float bowls' screws with a Phillips
screwdriver. Reattach the throttle and clutch cables to the carburetors
and tighten the cables' lock nuts with a 10 mm wrench. Slide the
carburetors through the left side of the frame. Push the carburetors
into the motor's intake manifolds. Tighten the intake manifolds' clamps
with a Phillips screwdriver.
9Pull the air box against the carburetors and push the air
box's flanges over the carburetors' inlets. Tighten the flanges' clamps
with a Phillips screwdriver. Screw the air box's mounting bolt onto the
frame's right seat rail, using a 10 mm socket.
10Lay the fuel tank onto the motorcycle's frame. Insert the
tank's pivot bolt through the hinge at the base of the tank. Screw the
pivot bolt's nut into place, using a 10 mm socket. Lift the tank up and
reattach the tank support rod to the motorcycle's frame. Insert the
hairpin clip into the support rod's base. Prop the tank up on the
support rod. Plug the wiring connector into the fuel pump and reconnect
all three hoses onto the bottom of the tank. Screw both mounting bolts
onto the front of the fuel tank, using a 10 mm socket.
11Mount the seat rail covers onto the motorcycle's frame.
Insert and tighten the covers' clip screws, using a Phillips
screwdriver. Lay the seat onto the seat rails, then press the rear of
the seat down until the seat latch locks into place.
Almost all door panels are attached by: SMALL PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS- these are found all around the door panel. They are normally hidden by; small plastic grommets (round, flat plastic push tabs used to cover and make it look pretty!) -remove with flat head screwdriver or your nails at-own risk, THE SPEAKER COVER- -easily popped off by squeezing outer edges inwards releasing the male part on the speaker cover from the slot on the door panel and THE RUBBER OR PLASTIC COVER- found on the inner side of the door handle -this cover may not be there for your model and you may see the screw or the grommet. If not, remove cover with flat head screw driver or needle nose plyers, then remove screw/s
Tips: 1)check for grommets if screw/s are not in plain sight)- plastic push tabs (flat head and round about a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch in diameter, normally matches the car door panel and fits flush with the panel as well so look closely! You will need a flat head screw driver for this part or try your nails at own risk.),
2) Once you have removed all the screws and or push tabs shake the panel to pin point any remaining screws or tabs. Some times there are slots in the door frame that join with the male part located on the inner side (touches the door) of the plastic panel.
You are on the right track...:) After removing the two visible mounting screws...you need to wrap your flat head scredriver with tape...and carefully pry the assembly away from the body...after removal...sounds like you can find the defective blulb...:)
1st: Dont listen to the so called gurus at FixYa. As the guru there was telling me that the frame was glued to the cabinet. If I would have followed his recommendation Id be buying new cabinets as well as a new mounting frame. FixYa should credit me my fee paid. The solution: For the built-in cabinet AEG microwave oven, it is required to use the AEG mounting kit. The AEG mounting face frame uses for screws, one at each corner concealed by small black plastic caps that blend in perfectly with the contour of the mounting face frame. If you look closely towards the inside of each corner you'll see a very small slot in the cap that will allow you to put a small flat head screw driver into the slot to work the cap out. Once the four caps are removed use a phillips screw driver to remove the screws that fix the mounting face frame to the cabinet.
OK, I just (11/29/09) replaced the battery on Conair TH301S glass scale. You will need a CR2032 (3V) battery, a small (P12) phillips screwdriver, a flat screwdriver and a small twiser (to hold small screws).
On a stable and clean surface (kitchen table, no kids around due to small screws) lay flat upside down the scale.
1) Remove all 6 phillips screws that hold the inner frame.
2) With the help of the flat screw driver unhoock each side of the inner frame (horse shoe shape)
3) Open slowly because there are 2 wires that connect the weight sensors and lay flat on the side.
4) There is an eletrical circuit beside the display, it is being held by 5 very small phillips screws (remove them)
5) The you will find underneath a small round black box held by 3 phillips screws. Remove them, open slowly the top cover and inside reside the battery, pop it up gently with the flat screw driver.
6) Replace the battery, reinstall the 3 screws.
7) Where the display stand, remove the 4 screws of the plastic cover. Slowly remove the cover and the LCD display itself (pay attention on how the display is installed).
8) Re install the circuit board with the 5 smaller screws
9) With a QTips and alcohol clean the contacts of the circuit board where the LCD dispaly sits. Sit in place the LCD display (it will touch the circuit from above) .
10) Place the plastic cover with the 4 screws.
11) re install the frame and put the 6 screws.
12) YOU HAVE DONE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if it is a 1001 all you need to unscrew is 4 screws on back black ones you will need to remove warrenty sticker inside battery compartment and then remove screw on trim ring. with 2001 remove 4 screws 2 under batery as above one is covered by warrenty sticker then remove one screw on bottom of trim then 2 small screws by usb use small flat head screw drive to release screen from screen mount
philip head screw driver,
flat head screw driver
metric socket std and deep.
rachet metric or 3/8 driver with a adaptor.
lower the windows.
look for small plastic cover on the door handle and door pull, pop the cover with a samll flat head screw and loosen the screws with philip head screw driver.
pull the in side panel from the button of the door panel with the help of screw driver and along the sides.
push the inside panel up wards to clear the glass. and disconnect any of the electric wiring. and left the panel out of the way.
take the window switch from the door pnael and roll up the windows.
peel down th inside water seal.
you should be able to get to the mounting screws for the mirror.
a few trips to the hardware store will solve this, take a few screws from around the house and find one that will thread into the barrel or whatever is in the frame, measure the lenght and off to the hardware store. home depot has a large selection of specialty screws.