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There are a number of different things that could cause that problem, a bad tire, a lower or upper control are bushing, a worn out inner or outer tire rod end l, a bad wheel bering. To figure out exactly where the problem is you need to visually and physically inspect each side of the suspension by having someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you observe both sides from underneath the front of the vehicle. From there you should be able to see what is moving when it shouldn't be or not moving when it should. Also inspect your brake rotors. You may simply need new rotors and brake pads.
Some year models have a electric lock on the brake pedal lever under the dash. Usually you can check it by pressing the brake pedal and observing the brake lights. If you lose this signal, the shift lever will not move from Park.
There can also be a shift rod inside the steering column which is linked to the ignition key. The shift rod can also be affected by the brake pedal switch failing to release the selector from Park. All 3 parts, ignition shift rod, brake pedal switch, and transmission release are adjusted together. Meaning if 1 does not work, the other 2 can be affected.
If it sounds like rushing air when you hit the brakes I would suspect the vacuum booster first. There is no air venting through the master cylinder but the booster is connected to a vacuum line. Kind of a pain in the *** to change, you have to remove the master cylinder, then get up underneath the dash and remove the bolts which go through the firewall and hold the booster. You may also have to disconnect the actuating rod which connects to the brake pedal arm. I would toss in a new master cylinder too when you put it back together. Do not put a used wear item in your vehicle unless you want to do the job again soon.
You need someone to look underneath as you put it on and off. There is one cable or rod that runs to the back, and then there is another that loops between the 2 rear brakes. It seems to me that one of them has to be sticking, and either needs lube or replacement. But who ever is watching it will easily be able to tell. You will need a flashlight.
depending on how bad the injectors are you can put some Lucas fuel treatment in your gas tank and it will clean them up for you. I use it every other fill up and have had no problems. My avalanche has 88,000 miles and I have never had injector problems. The power steering flush and brake flush you will need a vacuum pump.
Brakes: Locate the bleeder valve on each caliper and hook up your vacuum pump to it and pump it 4-5 times. Make sure your fluid reservoir is full. Put clean fluid in reservoir as needed. Repeat this again. ON bake brakes you will want to give it a few more pumps than the front because they are farther away from the master cylinder. You will need 2 of the small bottles of brake fluid or 1 large bottle. Sorry, I dont remember the oz. on each size.
Power steering: place a hose into the reservoir and pump all fluid out. Turn wheels all the way both ways and repeat twice. You will need several courts of power steering fluid.
have the brake booster rod hooked up then pull it out away from the brake pedal until the pedestal is flush with the hole opening in the brake booster rod. On your brake lamp switch you have a half opening on one side,put this side towards the pedestal first then slide it down over the brake booster rod until the front closed opening on the switch lines up with the pedestal and brake booster rod hole then push the switch and booster rod towards the pedal assembly and install the push pin clip.
why ???? somebody. see you like a rich person. ask you self the steering wheel shakes when you brake. have somebody to helpyou jack the car from the front put the parking brake on move the front wheel side to side(dont losing the nuts from the tire) and up and down you fell some play on both tires maybe you need tie rods