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This iron slip out of my hand and crashed onto the floor. now the light indicator didnt work. and the metal plate isnt hot enough.help. my mother will kill me.

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Look at the temperature setting on the top of the iron, under the handle. See if it accidently turned to a low setting when it fell. Tell your mom, she loves you.

Posted on Apr 03, 2015

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If your from india and can't afford a new one e-mail me at andrewsmart6v53@yahoo.com.au with a post box number and i'll post you a new one

Posted on Apr 03, 2015

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I am very sorry, but you will have to tell your mom you broke the iron. There is no easy fix for it. If you were next door .....maybe I could look at it for you....but your not....so gotta fess up....and don't plug it back in.....you may get electrocuted. Give it to your dad or mom to evaluate it's worthiness of further use.

Posted on Apr 03, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Cannot get black stains off with the cleaner kit from Rowenta that I bough at Bed Bath and Beyond. Used almost all of the cream and still not clean. adjina39@aol.com


Are you heating up the soleplate first to get it really hot, then put on an oven mitt to protect your hand, squirt cream onto a folded pad of clean cotton fabric, then apply to iron sole plate, rub over stained area gently, wait, then rub off. you may want to rub the whole iron sole onto a piece of waste fabric to remove the burnt bits. Itcan take a couple of goes to clean. The ironing press cleaning sticks work well too.

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Gravity feed steam iron


If you have been using tap water in your iron, and your water has lime or calcium in it, then the iron is probably clogged up. You might try using a product like "Lime Away". Read the warnings on the bottle first. Don't get it on your skin or in your eyes. Don't breathe the mist or steam. The bottle I looked at also had warnings about how it would mess up some counter tops or sinks.But if the iron doesn't work anyway, carefully pour some into your iron maybe about one fourth full, then carefully shake the iron to get the stuff all over the insides of the iron holding the iron like you would if you were ironing. Let the iron sit for a bit, then shake it again, maybe a couple more times like that. pour it out into an old bowl that it wont ruin, and see if there are a lot of minerals in the liquid. If there are, that may have cleaned it enough to start working again. Pour enough water in the iron until it is half full, plug it in and turn the temperature up to where it will produce steam, but don't iron any clothes yet because there is still cleaner in the iron. turn the iron so it is like you are ironing, but don't let it touch anything. Hold it over something like some old rags. If steam comes out, don't breathe it, but let it come out for a little while. Pour out that water and refill with fresh water and let it steam over the rags again. Pour that water out and all the chemicals should be flushed out of the iron. Carefully wipe the hot plate off to get any chemicals off the plate. Good Luck

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TEFAL STEAM GENERATOR GV8460 NO STEAM IRON HEATS UP


The water is heated by a metal plate that is bolted to the metal water tank, operating in pretty much the same way as a domestic kettle, the plate being the element. The plate is fixed in place by 8 or so nuts onto studs that form part of the water tank and heated by passing electrical current into this plate. Over time the nuts come loose and consequently the plate is not in full contact with the water tank. This results in insufficient heat transfer and a failure to consistently reach the required temperature to create steam. Ultimately you will need to remove the plastic base of the unit to access the plate and re-tighten the nuts. You will need a small 6 star bit with the centre punched out to remove the base as it is secured with security screws. These are readily available on ebay as they are the same as those used to secure number plates.

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Rowenta Advancer iron has been working for 2 years and now won't heat up. I have checked the cord and it is fine. The heat indicator light comes on but I don't measure any voltage going to the hot plate....


<div class="solution-text"><span id="ctl00_ctl00_MainColumn_CenterColumn_ThreadSolutions1_Repeater1_ctl00_lblSolution"><span><span>Hi,<br /><br />Here is a tip that will help you to troubleshoot your iron and figure out what is wrong with it.<br /><br />Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right <br /><a href="http://www.fixya.com/support/r5300202-electric_iron_not_heating_up_or_not" target="_blank">http://www.fixya.com/support/r5300202-electric_iron_not_heating_up_or_not</a><br /><br />heatman101 </span></span><br /></span></div><!-- /solution text --><!-- helpful bar -->

Aug 25, 2010 | Rowenta Irons

1 Answer

My iron rowenta leaks when before and after i!m iroeing


my iron is different to yours but i used to have leaks as well.

for me it was because i have a heat setting dial that indicates that the steam function is activated when set to a very high temperature.

i also have a push lever on the top of the iron that controls how much, if any, steam is produced by the iron.

the amount of steam is regulated by letting more or less water through to be vaporised by the heating element.

if the heat setting is low and the steam setting has not been switched off then water is being allowed through but the element is not hot enough to vaporise the water. the result is water pooling and either dribbling through onto the clothing you are ironing or running off when you sit the iron up.

maybe it will help if you turn the steam setting off while the iron is not in use.


Jan 14, 2010 | Rowenta DZ5080 Iron with Auto Shut-off

1 Answer

Sole plate leaking


This IS a steam iron? The iron must be hot for the steam to form. If it's not hot enough, the water is leaking thru the steam holes. Also if the channels are calsified (boiler stone has formed into the steam channels) this may happen.

Nov 04, 2009 | Tefal Irons

2 Answers

Need to clean the plate


Limescale remover, like CLR or Limeaway, or whatever they sell at the hardware store.

Sep 15, 2009 | Euro-Pro Shark Rapido Electronic Iron -...

4 Answers

Iron not heating up...


I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:

- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.

I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.

I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.

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1 Answer

Red light flashing


Blinking red light is a standby phase, its not going to get hot like this. Shake it or just start ironing, the red light will go solid and the plate will heat up. The red light will go off when the plate is hot enough. It will go on again (solid) after a few minutes to keep the plate at the right temperature. If you leave it standing around for a while it will begin blinking again (standby).

These irons are known for malfunctioning though, mine stays in standby and the plate never heats up! Hopefully yours is fine.

Feb 07, 2008 | Braun SI6225 Iron

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