Question about GE Dryers

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GE dryer #Pbvh520ej0www. There is "0" heat. None. Here is what I have done: - vent clear - heat sensors all tested, and some changed to be certain - element changed - electricity current checked

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  • Jerry Smith Apr 04, 2015

    If its the relay board under the top, the best price I hace seen is from V&Vappliance parts. at about $190. Part # WE4M388. All the other parts site I checked are over $200 and more like $240.

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3 Answers

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  • GE Master
  • 473 Answers

One other possibility you haven't checked is the dryer motor switch. The power for the heater is sent through the centrifugal start switch on the motor. If I remember right it is motor contacts 1 and 2. With the motor running those contacts should be closed or you get no heat.

Posted on Apr 04, 2015

  • Dan Lefrancois Apr 04, 2015

    Thanks for your help. Today I gave up and had an electrician come and run some diognostic tests. Looks like everything I have checked and changed were all good, but the problem appears to be coming from the electronic circuit board...! That's above my habilities...lol. At least I know I've done some stuff wright. Now I have to find one that's not too expensive. This machine will be the most expensive appliance in my house when I'm done with it!!! At least I got a fairly good dryer repair course out of it!!!

  • Dan Lefrancois Apr 04, 2015

    Hey Jerry, thanks for all your help, and for the model number and place to get it..! It's very appreciated when you're out of your element!!! (No pun intended!!!) haha take care!!!

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  • GE Master
  • 5,323 Answers

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.

Posted on Apr 03, 2015

Testimonial: "I used a ohm metre for continuity. Continuity was good. The moister sensor barely moves the needle on my ohm metre though. But it moves it a bit. I changed it to a new one, and it gives the same results, barely moves it. Not sure about that one. It's located near the fan, and it is made of plastic, with a little lip that sticks into the exhaust by the fan."

  • Dan Lefrancois Apr 03, 2015

    Is there anything else, I've checked all of that already with no luck. There's a limit of things that can go wrong, it seems I've checked everything.... This will happen to me, can't be an easy one lol...!

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 03, 2015

    All I can say at this point is u may have checked and gotten a wrong reading somewhere? when u say u checked heat sensors, what do u mean? did u check all thermostats? with no wires connected.

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  • GE Master
  • 2,184 Answers

Did u check to make sure u have 110 volts in each leg of your 220 outlet?

Posted on Apr 02, 2015

  • 4 more comments 
  • Dan Lefrancois Apr 02, 2015

    I did, right inside the unit...all good!

  • rdjagger Apr 02, 2015

    And u checked continuity on all of the thermal fuses/thermistors etc I assume. Baffling sorry I'm of no help. Good luck.

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 03, 2015

    did u check ur thermistor for atleast 12,000 ohms not just for continuity?

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 03, 2015

    by the way when u checked ur moister sensor checking for just continuity may not be enough as it has to put out a certain amount of ohms in order to work properly, u will need ur schematic to see the rating needed, sorry to make it hard for u

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 03, 2015

    or it may be as simple as cleaning the ends and connections with a steel wool pad where the moister sensor sits n the door

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 03, 2015

    moisture sensors and control the automatic cycle may have a film of dryer sheet residue covering the electrodes and signalling that your clothes are dry before they actually are.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer model 110.60942990 no

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the part numbers are as follows:

Heating Element - 279838
TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit - 279816

All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

All your heating circuits are accessible by removing the lower toe panel dire the rear of the dryer by removing the back panel. Just remove the screws around the perimeter of the back panel and the heating circuits will be located on the right-hand side. Refer to the exploded view diagrams at the websites2.gif I mentioned for reference. The heating circuitry is located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

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In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
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