Question about Kitchen Appliances - Others
One side doesn't heat and handle won't stay down.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: another problem comes up....
You definitely have a problem with the hold down circuit. You will need a DMM. If you don't have one they are fairly inexpensive now and with a little reading of the instructions you should be able to master their use. Look for a fusible resistor. It should be a small shiny canister, pointed on one end flat on the other, with metal leads on each end and inline on the wire to the hold down mechanism. Once you find this, with the DMM on resistance setting (continuity), check across the device. If the DMM says infinity, in other words it shows a 1 and the display never changes, this is your problem. Replace it with a new one. They protect the device from runaway heating and are set to open at predetermined temps. Replace it witht the same rated device. Available at most electronic stores. The rating should be in centigrade (such as 160, 180, ect). This should solve your problem. You cannot solder the thermal fuse in as solder will melt when the toaster gets hot. It must be crimped to the wire. Sounds like your almost there. Good luck.
Posted on Jul 20, 2006
jsullivan22 is right about the diode. I have this problem with my 24502, which is a dual version of this. There are 2 circuit boards in your unit one with the LED display on it and another one. The diode needing replacing is on the other board. it is in the center of the board, right next to a large (1/2W or 1W) 2K ohm resistor. The diode is probably part number 3ez24d5. Test it with the diode test on your DMM, if it is bad you will get 0V both directions (I think). Also if you measure it with the Ohm function it will probably measure less than an Ohm (check the zero on your DMM as many are not accurate down this low) You can probably replace it with a <a id="ctl00_ContentMain_CartGrid_grid_ctl02_ctl00_lnkManufacturerPartNumber" href="http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N5934BGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-1N5934BG" style="font-weight: bold;">1N5934BG</a> or a <a id="ctl00_ContentMain_CartGrid_grid_ctl03_ctl00_lnkManufacturerPartNumber" href="http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1N5359BGvirtualkey58410000virtualkey863-1N5359BG" style="font-weight: bold;">1N5359BG</a> Mouser stocks both of these (currently). I haven\'t gotten my parts so I can\'t guarantee these will work, but I\'m pretty sure. I will try the latter first as I\'m hoping it\'s higher power rating will keep it from burning out again, although I will be buying several spares. <br><br>This is clearly a design issue with these toasters and one that could be easily corrected. Both circuit boards in my toaster are very toasty in the area of these diodes, although I\'m sure the fact that these boards are mounted very close to the heating elements doesn\'t help their longevity.<br><br>Hope this helps everyone.
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
Hi, most new toaster have a selenoid that hold down the handle while toasting then release when done so a spring bring the toast up. Possible problem with the selenoid, the electronic circuit that controls it or the plate that the selenoid holds. When you lower the handle you close the contacts of the AC line inside the toaster so if the handle is raised there is no power.
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
We had exact the same problem. Our problem was within the circuit board controlling the release relay, on the left side. 3 parts was dead:
1) rectifier diode 200V 1amp
2) Electrolytic capacitor 220uF 25V
3 Zener diode 12V 1W
These components supplies 12VDC to the rest of the circuits from the mains, 127 VAC.
Posted on Jul 06, 2010
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