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I have a XB13 2TTB3036A1000AA. Is a .078 or a .075 metering device to large of a number for this condenser unit? What is the recommended fixed metering device size?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

chillmaster
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: oil trap for 2 ton split unit

Pipe size is okay, not that I know any better than the manufacturer, but I would recommend at least two and possibly even three oil traps in the vapor line on the way back up.

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

icemelts
  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: The condensing unit is more than 75 feet from the

No. 75' of distance between condenser coil and evaporator coil is not considered abnormal at all. I would look elsewhere for reasons your unit does not cool in very hot weather, i.e., dirty condenser, low charge, improper sizing of AC and cooling space to name just a few.

Posted on Jun 11, 2011

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Can i replace only wall split system head with different brand


I wouldn't recommend it, because of capacity, refrigerant type, and functionality. For example, heat pump condensing unit can only be matched with a heat pump air handler and must use the same type of metering device on the inside unit. It can be done, but would have to be done by a qualified tech. Why chance problems. Besides, you'll void the warranty.

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Goodman unit runs and at the a-coil there is a piston where your suction and liquid lines connect. On the liquid side the piston is cold but warm on the other side of piston. A/C unit will not cool.


That piston is the metering device. On the liquid line, before the metering device it is always warm (this is sub cooled, high pressure liquid), but should flash to low pressure, lower temperature vapor once it passes through the metering device. The suction and liquid line never connect together.The liquid line brings liquid from the condenser to the evaporator. The suction line brings super heated vapor from the evaporator to the compressor. Since the unit does run, I'd have to put a gauge on it,but if I had to guess, I'd guess you have high head pressure. Check for dirt or debris on the condenser, check for proper clearance of the condensing unit and check for operation and directional rotation of the condenser fan. This could also be the result of an over charge.

Aug 26, 2013 | Goodman CKL36AR36 Air Conditioner

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Sunbeam air conditioner 7500 btu model sck 7500dr, not cooling anymore what can be the problem


It could be a number of things. Compressor could be finished, a clogged metering device,a dirty condenser, low or no refrigerant (freon), blocked return air register. Bird's nest in the unit's condenser(in the rear), broken conductor, blocked or restricted liquid line, inoperable condenser fan or just about anything.Just replace it.

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Does a Noritz Model n-084m need a condensate tee for proper installation


I would google make and model number find the company web site and download a manual . or phone there teck help line to make sure .

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Humming/buzzing from 221's Subwoofer.


You should replace the large Electrolytic(s) in the power supply. You should replace any other Electrolytic capacitor that the top is bulging or looks like there is something coming out of it.
Personally I would not recommend replacing any polarised capacitors with none polarised, unless you have seen an instruction from the Maker of the unit, which tells you to do so.
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Please advise wire and breaker size for this unit. Thanks Doug


On any piece of equipment look for the model number tag and check for something that looks like M.C.A. and/or M.O.C.P. (with or without the .'s after the letters) The MCA is minimum circuit amps which indicates the minimum wire size and therefore minimum breaker size as well. The MOCP is maximum over current device. This is the Maximum fuse or breaker size recommended for the unit. However, both numbers are more importantly linked to the wire size feeding the unit. You must be certain that the wire size is large enough to provide proper voltage without overheating and not put too large a fuse or breaker for the wire size. A good electrician or an electrical chart for wire sizing is very important.

Dec 11, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I had the loft insulated a couple of months ago but now that the temp has plummeted, the upstairs windows on the north facing house front are running with condensation. Presumably, this means the...


Hi Phil!!
I think your best bet would be a dehumidifier - fixing the plastic would only move the condensation from the glass to your plastic! attics ( or lofts) tend to be humid. However,a dehumidifier would require constant babysitting to keep the reservoir from overflowing, so I would recommend installing a drain hose in the reservoir tank going to the outside so you don't have to watch it. Some models have a drain hose instead of a reservoir and I would recommend a quality unit - it's going to be working overtime if your area is anything like as moist as my area is!! Also - when you pass the hose through the house wall, do not allow the hose end to be against the house as the runoff may rot your siding. Drill your exit hole at a 45 degree angle and let at least 3 inches of hose protrude from the side of the house so it will drip into the yard and not down the side of the house. Also, if you added a small electric heater to the loft there would be much less moisture to trap but your electric bill will be bigger.
Hope this helps!!!

Nov 29, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

We just installed a new Goodman HVAC and the compressor lines freeze up. The technician that installed the unit cannot find the problem


Not to be critical, but not much of a technician if he cannot properly troubleshoot the issue.

Several issues can cause the freezing problems:

1. Refrigerant charge issue.
2. Improper equipment sizing.
3. Air flow issues.
4. Metering device issue.

First is under charge. But before making this determination several other things must be diagnosed and resolved.

Was the unit sized properly using a heat load calculation? You may not know what this means but a reputable, knowledgable contractor does. If the unit was oversized, it can cause the unit to freeze. If the indoor fan & motor were undersized. it may not be moving enough air across the coil and this will cause the coil & suction line to freeze.

Air flow issues, such as obstructions in your ducting or across your evaporator coil will cause the coil to freeze, thusly your suction line will freeze as well. Is the filter and evaporator coil clean? Are there any obstructions in the air passages (duct)? Is the duct work sized properly. Improper sizing of the duct work may choke down the required return air flow, and cause the coil to freeze.

The last issue could be a problem with the metering device. If it is an adjustable thermostatic metering device, was it setup to maintain a 12 degree suction superheat? If it is a fixed metering device, such as a cap tube device or bullet (orifice) device, it mat have a restriction (ususally a piece of solder or flakes from the soldering process clogging up the inlet screen). To easily check this, thaw the system out, start it back up when thawed and look for frosting or ice accumulation at the metering device outlet side. I fit does this rather quickly, then the system must have the refrigerant recovered (or pumped down into the condenser) and the blockage removed.

If it is air related, this must be fixed prior to properly trying to charge a system. Unless the proper airflow has been established, charging the system, or checking charge cannot be properly performed.

Sep 03, 2010 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Does the orifice, which needs to be installed in the inside unit of an a/c for a house, come with the outside condenser? I had an a/c system installed and an orifice was never installed. the original...


The orifice is the metering device inside the evaporator coil and comes installed from the factory in the coil itself. Some condensers do come with orifices taped to the side of the unit, but they only do that to ensure you have the right size orifice. Sometimes you will have a 3 ton evaporator and a 2.5 ton condenser. In this case you want to change the orifice so that it meters the refrigerant correctly. But if you have a 3 ton condenser and a 3 ton coil, which is normal, you don't have to do anything. So to answer your question, your coil already came with a orifice inside and nothing needs to be done unless there are two different sized units as described above. Hope I didn't bore you too much and helped you with your question!

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1 Answer

Re-located condenser, trying to charge unit in cold weather. How do I do this?


It's probably too late to recommend capturing (bottling) the charge in the condensing unit...... With that said the absolute 100% way to charge any unit is to use the weight method. If you look on the nameplate of the unit it will provide you the amount of refrigerant needed in lbs and ounces, the manufacture instruction manual will give you the additional weight needed for the lenght of the line set. In the event you don't have the ability to weigh the refrigerant accurately you can always wrap the condensing unit with a blanket reduce the condensing capacity of the condenser this will simulate a warmer ambient and allow you to charge the unit. If the unit has a fixed orfice metering device you can use the superheat method, if the unit has a TXV (thermal expansioin valve) you should use the subcooling method. Either of these methods with detailed proceedures can be found on any of the popular search engines. Hope this helps and good luck!

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