a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to an Expert (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I am thinking it is your distributor. I had this happen just a few weeks ago. Check with local junkyards as I found a used(almost brand new) distrubutor for 100.00 opposed to almost 300.00 new. Same exact problem and also changed each thing you listed prior to finding out it was my distrubutor. My truck runs like it did before the issues started.
Let me tell you that I'm also working on that. :-)..
A nissan ga13ds, since it is carbureted, then it is limited on the amount of modifications that are of good value for money, since some of the top end modifications may cost you the price of a brand new nissan sentra + modifications.
Here are some things I did and are planning:
-Replace the stock fuel filter assembly to a high performance one. (ex. to a High flow air filter, cold air intake, short ram intake, etc.)
-switch to an electrical fuel pump.
-upgrade exhaust system. (performance headers, high flow catalytic converter, larger exhaust pipes, racing mufflers.
-upgrade to a better radiator (aluminum) + stronger and better fans. (a cooler engine runs a bit faster)
-Install an oil cooler again for the same reason of better cooling.
-(just my idea) Buy a performance carburetor. (this may be too costly because you might have have an intake manifold custom built)
-Replace engine internals to race internals for better performance under High RPM.
-Find or custom build racing camshafts to replace your stock. (this will result to better performance at high RPM levels but will not be efficient running the car in a lower RPM range).
You can also improve the performance of the car itself by doing the following:
-carbon fiber/fiberglass/aluminum hood and trunk.
-and any other stuff not necessary to you can be removed to save more weight.
I would say that your bike may be running a little lean. I usually replace the jets on all my bikes as soon as I get them as the emissions requirements mandate that the manufacturers pass stringent emissions tests prior to the dealer selling them. Some bikes wont even idle or run, especially off road bikes from places like California. and in these cases you must re jet it is a must! I even throw away or drill larger holes into my air cleaner cover.
We are going to assume there is no Rev limiter in the ignition circuit.
Disconnect the throttle, move the throttle lever by hand and see what RPM you pull. It should be able to go higher than when you had a load on it. Check your throttle stops.
If you have a 4 barrel with a secondary, look at the mechanical linkage. If you have a vacuum operated secondary, see if you have any open vacuum ports.
If this is a vacuum secondary, there are springs you can buy to change when the pulldown occurs.
Check for a clogged gas filter, kinked hose, or hole in the gas line before the fuel pump.
If this new engine is running the same carb and ignition as the old motor, check your base timing and advance.
If you have not used this boat before the new engine was installed check your prop pitch and size. The prop is like changing gears, you need to adjust throttle stops so you do not over rev or under rev. Let us know what you found.
Only burn the best gas. I had a one cylinder Ducati, and I could tell one brand gas from another by how it started and ran. Find high octane, not necessarily aviation fuel, but the best on the street. When in doubt, change the plugs. If you are doing only low rpm running, you will need hotter plugs to keep themselves burned clean. If you are doing a lot of good rpm running, colder plugs will work, but that's usually just for racing.
The H is for high rpm (Main mixture) and the L is for Low rpm (Idle Mixture). First turn in both screws all the way in and then turn them both out 1 and a half turns. Pump the primer bulb if the equipment has one. Start the engine, once it is idling, turn the L (Idle Mixture) screw out (counterclockwise) from the preliminary setting until the engine speed decreases (rich). Note the position of the needle. Now turn the adjusting needle in (clockwise). The engine speed may increase, then it will decrease as the needle is turned in (lean). Note the position of the needle. Set the adjusting needle midway between the rich and lean settings as in the picture below. Don't touch the throttle during this procedure. Once you have found the best idle speed for the engine then you need to adjust the high rpm. This process is the same as with the idle rpm process but you need the to hold the throttle wide open while you are adjusting the H (Main Mixture) needle on the carburetor.