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Ballast burned out components on circuit board. How do I tell what they are to replacement by unsoldering the bad ones they are burned and split.

I have a double T12 fixture that was cold, then warmed up and condensed moisture on the starter circuit board and blew some components. How do I tell what the components are I need to unsolder and replace? I can see two that are obviously damaged, i.e. perhaps resisters or capacitors etc. I can supply a picture of the circuit board. It was not a normal fixture with a plug in starters. It is a Lights of America fixture.

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There is only one way. You need to obtain a circuit diagram. Good luck with that.

Posted on Feb 24, 2016

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I have a Samsung 46 LN46C630K1F CCFL TV with a backlight that doesn't come on. How can I tell whether it is the inverter board or the power supply board that is bad?


Check and replace the damaged components at its back light inverter circuit. What else to look for? If you wish to get more details visit the site linked here. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Sometimes the back light inverter board might need replacement.

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Repeated temporary lost picture


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How I find the number of a burn piece in a circuit board


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else if it's a component like a diode or a fuse it's easy to replace it without the complete number
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Oct 26, 2012 | Dell POWER SUPPLY Power Supply

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My KDS-50A2020 TV has an error code indicating a lamp driver fault (5 red blinks). I replaced both the lamp and the ballast and it still doesn't work. I need further assistance troubleshooting the...


Hello.
Ballast in Sony is one of the most reliable parts, almost never goes bad.
I assume you have TV unplugged from the wall outlet to reset error memory (not to mention that you have to do it anyway during ballast replacement).
I hope you are using good quality lamp, because cheap substitute from E-Bay can cause same problem. Lamp and ballast works as duo and on-board diagnostic system is unable to separate them unless lamp is completely blown (in that case you will have steady "Lamp" LED blinking).
You need to set TV up with back cover removed but lamp door attached (there is switch that prevent TV from working if lamp door is removed). You need to locate large 2-wire connector on ballast and make sure that it's getting about 330V DC from power supply board when you turning your TV on. If it's not there - you have power supply board problem. There should be fuse on it (not on the ballast board but power supply board - just trace those two thick wires where they coming from). That fuse could be blown by previous bad ballast shortage.
Small connector on ballast have 5 pins. Some of them ground, one of them steady 5V and another trigger (turn on signal) 5V. Make sure all voltages are there. If there is no trigger 5V - you have problem with main board.
In my experience 90% cases - it is very bad quality new lamp or something is just not connected (forgot to put plug all the way or something).
Good luck!
Russ.

Aug 17, 2010 | Sony KDS-50A2020 Television

1 Answer

Kenwood amplifier 5.1 sound keeps droping out . Pro logic stop working then other sound modes stop working after a while i.e. stereo, Hall etc...


You have a component (probably a transistor) that is overheating, or possibly a capacitor going bad. The circuit board will have to be troubleshot, and the bad component identified. Fortunately, heat problems can be figured out by buying some Freeze Spray (Freon), and when the unit acts up, you spray suspected components, slowly...until it works again. This will identify which component you need to replace by unsoldering, etc. I would start in the power supply area, if you can identify it...chances are that's where your problem is. Good luck, hope this helps.

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1 Answer

52HM84 Toshiba DLP with apparent failed lamp (replaced ballast)


I found R3 on the original board to be open, along with reading an open on CR1, D5 and D6. All the other transistors and the transformer check out. The only thing I have to do now is find out the specs of the diodes. The replacement board also had CR1, D5 and D6 open (R3 was OK). There had been some threads on various locations where remanufactured boards had bad components (the transistors were changed but not some of the other components).

Jan 18, 2010 | Toshiba TheaterWide 52HM84 52" Rear...

1 Answer

Flair Fan


OK, good news and bad. Check the actual fan speed potentiometer with a ohmmeter. There are only two outs from the pot itself to the little circuit board that its attached too. The pot is 75K so make sure your ohmmeter is in the right range setting. With the meter connected, turn the dial and make sure it goes from 0 to between 70K and 75K ohms. If it doesnt or its all over the board, then the pot is the problem. Now I can't seem to find one that is a direct replacement, 75K is an oddball. I didn't un-solder mine from the board. If yours is bad, unsolder it and look on the back for the manufacturers part number, google that with the p/n as the search terms.

The circuit for the fan is not tied to the sanatize button. The circuit is relatively small, with two film capacitors, two resistors, a diode, and a triac. The circuit is on the board located underneath the unit. The circuit is located right next to the fan pot inputs on the main board. Its about 1" square with the "fan pot" inputs at the bottom left corner, if reading labels right-side-up. Resistors are almost indestructable so it is probably not them. I would lean towards the triac, diode, or caps. Look at the components and the solder connects in that circuit. If anything looks burned or black, or a solder joint looks like it has gotten too hot, that component is probably the problem. If its not the pot, which more likely than not it probably is, then I would lean towards the triac or diode. Here is the triac p/n:511-BTB06-600T. The diode I would also have to unsolder to access the part number, or I would list that as well.

I would start at the pot. That would be my guess as to what went bad. It could also be a bad solder joint on the small board the pot is soldered on to. Also check and clean the 1/4" disconnect terminals on the fan motor itself. For mine, I just cut off the old female terminals on the wires and crimped on new ones.
Hope this can give some help.

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2 Answers

New bulb and won't come on. audio works. what circuit panel controls video and light circuitry?


Replace Ballast Board it is what turns Lamp on! Call Encompass for Part 1-800-638-3328 .

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2 Answers

My 42pf7421d/37 flashes a red light when i turn


Hi, philips (sony and others) uses the flashing red lights to give an error code, but all that means is that a circuit is probably shorted and doesn't always indicate specific components,.
42pf7421 is an LCD that basically has two large circuit boards in it. If you have technical ability you can examine the power supply to see if any capacitors are swollen on their top sections. this is a common failure in many LCDs and Plasmas, but would require soldering to replace them. If no caps look swollen troubleshooting this set would involve voltage checks , a service manual and board replacement.
Could be either the main board, power supply or possibly a bad screen (panel) If you have the set open you can sometimes see the LCD bulbs light for a split second indicating that a problem with either the panel itself or the ballast power section. If it lights for a second sometimes I can see that one bulb is not lighting. One bad bulb will cause the set to go into shutdown mode , indicating a bad screen (panel) .
I hope this info helps you decide on the options before you
1. call a tech expect to pay an estimate fee, parts and labor btwn $200-$1000
2.check the power supply, reseat the panel cable, look for a momentary light of the screen. order a suspected part and replace it yourself.
3. buy a new TV (sry bad option)
hope this helps
Eric

Sep 01, 2009 | Philips 42PF7421D 32 in. LCD HDTV

1 Answer

Replaced the lamp on 50v710 keeps on burning out


You have a bad Ballast. This can be repaired sometimes by replacing the capacitors on the Ballast circuit board.

Jul 29, 2009 | Televison & Video

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