Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
No spin, or lite spin try these:
Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Or try the hand test:
If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.
- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.
Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.
Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Posted on May 08, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Maytag washer will not spin
If your washer does everything but does not spin, it is your outlet filter which is blocked. Locate this and clean out, it has to work fine. Refer user's manual.
Posted on Jun 05, 2007
ok two companies make kenmore you have a frigidaire model i gave you instructions for whirlpool heres frigidaire
I think your on the right track but a couple of things you need to know first that model washer wont spin tiny loads or one articles of clothing it has a device in the motor called a tacho generator to balance if you have only a small load it cant sense the balance and most of the time will only rock back and forth second your pump is the most likely culprit if you look in side the washer you will see a seem in the tub next to that will be one of the washer tumblers take the screws out of that tumbler slide it forward there will be a hole there rotate the tub to your right and you will find the hole going down to the drain pump can check it there but i don't think you'll find any thing as that is a larger hole it think your drain pump is now if you have a shop vac this is time to vacuum the water of the tub and all the way down the drain hole for the next stage usally i tell customers to remove the drain hose from the stand pipe and vacuum the water out of the washer from the drain hose but because of the pillow this might not work in your case. Now remove the two screws on the front lower panel and pull the panel
in side you will see the drain pump if you did not have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps and clamp the hose line as close to the washer as possible.(but put down some towels as water always stays there) then pull the tub to pump hose by depressing the squeeze clamp(now while your at the auto parts id get a screw clamp to replace the spring clamp it makes putting the hose back on a lot easier)pull the hose off.Then pull the pump to drain hose off .Remove the two 5/16 in screws securing the pump to the washer base.Unplug the connector and remove the pump inspect the pump for foreign objects,broken or stripped impeller blades . if the impeller are stripped you will have to replace the pump then form the front of the washer take your finger and feel up in the large rubber hose for any thing in there the drain pump should turn pretty freely if nothing is restricting it
Posted on Jan 20, 2008
could be a stuck gear box. burning rubber smell is coming from the belt sliding .
or the belt is just loose and can not turn the drum to spin it.
tnx 4 using fixya,
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct
drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of
the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again. The Sears site for your washer may have a sub-component section on the gearcase with a part number for the Neutral Drain Assembly repair kit.
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
You can also see this site for removing the transmission.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.
The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
Testimonial: "The information is very detailed and I'm sure will be helpful. We'll know more once we check for damages to the springs on the cams."
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Mar 29, 2016 | Frigidaire Washing Machines
Hello Philip, I appreciate your inquiry!
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