Question about Washing Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Posted on Apr 13, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
couple things this could be lets start obvious
faulty door switch even though door latches doesnt mean its working properly
bad guages easy to check dont have to run dryer just guages
turn on setting let run threw cycle if it stops on cycle and dont move for a length of time this will be the problem
these 2 things are main causes of why a machine wont work or partcially works at times everything else is easy
Posted on May 29, 2008
Symptom: Electric Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block.
The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC.
The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms.
This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord.
Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer.
Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason.
You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation.
If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing.
All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail.
This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH.
When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home.
It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER.
After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer.
This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not.
Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it.
If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely.
I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires.
These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step.
If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.
If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips.
They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.
(HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier).
If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models.
This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component.
NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time.
They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
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Posted on Sep 18, 2010
"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.
Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:
- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.
In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.
NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.
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Posted on Sep 29, 2010
SOURCE: i have a frigidaire glet1142cs0
UNPLUG THE MACHINE. Take the back off the dryer, usually 4 to 6 screws. On the backside of the panel you just took off should be a schematic showing where the thermo fuses are.
Take an ohm meter and check across the prongs sticking up, you may have to unplug them to get good contact. They should show 1, open, if they show 0, short. they need replaced. There are online parts companies that can help you get the right part.
It is unlikely that the element is bad, but if the thermo fuses show open, then you should be able to see the element, and replace it.
Posted on Mar 27, 2011
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