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No power on the display or any sign of power at all , when I went to use it today but is pluged into a live out let , what can I do

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  • Crofter Mar 31, 2015

    Hi Any g, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?

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  • Ovens Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:

1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.



Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.


The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

Posted on Apr 18, 2015

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2 Answers

Kenmore oven won't work


1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
2.
3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


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Apr 21, 2014 | Whirlpool RBS245PDS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 790.9232 electric oven range with digital display. There was a pop as I was cooking today and the circuit breaker in the basement went off. I reset the breaker, and while the stovetop...


some thing has definately blown. were you using the oven at the time? it could be the oven element other wise i think its the circuit board. if you cant trouble shoot those simple things then you will need a technition.

Jul 02, 2017 | Ovens

1 Answer

My power went off today and when it came back on, my Kenmore oven shows error code "PF 5 AB". None of the buttons work that I press. Burners turn on, but can't turn on oven. Suggestions?


Could that be PF power failure 5AB in the Sabbath mode. That's a new one.
Your model number is useless. Sears has a big 3 digit product code followed by 8 digits.
But let me dig up my 5AB notes:

Here is what I have:

To
provide sabbath feature (or to cancel this setting):
1. Push the PREHEAT pad and set the oven
temperature to 500°F/260°C or more using the UP
ARROW pad.
2. Push the PREHEAT pad within the next 2 seconds
for 3-4 seconds. A beep sounds and a number
appears in red to the right of the display. For the
conversion, "3" must be displayed. If another number
is displayed, push the PREHEAT pad and select
"3".
3. Push the UP or DOWN ARROW pad to change
from 12 hour to 9999 in the display, for no 12 hour
shut-off.
4. Push the CANCEL pad to confirm your choice.

Other Displays:
When proceeding through steps 1 and 2 in the
Temperature Scale Conversion or in the elimination
of the Sabbath feature /12-hour Shut-off time limit,
two other words can be seen in the display. One is ESC
with O in red. It cannot be changed. The other is USE or
SALE with 3 in red. This one is for factory use and should
stay on USE.
Hope this helps
themobilian_1960.jpg

Mar 19, 2011 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

I have a 5 year old Kitchen Aid duel fuel slide-in range. I have used clean twice since I got it. I tried to start clean today and it all went fine until I noticed after about 30 minutes that it was not...


Hi Cynthia

F5 error code normally means control board or clock failure. It means you will have to have a new control board and clock fitted.

Dec 18, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Our home has a Whirlpool Gold built-in convection oven. The home is @5 years old. We've lived here for one year. Today, the display had an error message (E6). After we cleared the error message, the...


Hello!
This blank display is a common control board problem. If the buttons beep when pressed, then the control board is getting adequate power. If the buttons beep.. and your oven light still turns on when the oven door is open.. this a text book control board failure. We at Fixyourboard.com can solve this problem for you, and back the remanufacture with a two year warranty.
GBD RBD Whirlpool Oven Problems Causes and Solutions

Apr 21, 2017 | Whirlpool GBD307PD Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Oven display went blank. Has Power.


Hello, The first thing I'd look at is your owner's manual to insure the timer hasn't been set to "Sabbath" mode accidently. If that is the case you could experience a "no display" scenario. The manual will also explain how to enter/exit the "Sabbath" mode. In the event the timer itself is at fault ( i.e. the display transformer gone bad ) it will have to be replaced or (if an available option exist's for your timer) have your timer rebuilt. Hope that help's and please take a second and rate the info provided by me here at fixya. Thank you and good luck. macmarkus :)

Dec 07, 2009 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

I have a Euromaid 1505 TI oven. It worked fine yesterday. Today when i went to use it, the display screen is blank and it won't work. I checked the main power switches in the garage, and everything seems...


I have euromaid 1505TI oven, the bottom element was replaced but since then have been unable to bake cakes, bis, etc without them burning,. have tried lowering the temp but still burns. can anyone help me with this and tell me what the prob might be before i get a tech in.

May 15, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Beeping sound and f8 displayed


F8 means to replace the elctronice range control board. Evidently the power failure caused damage to the board.

May 24, 2008 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

KitchenAid Architect Series KEMC308KSS


check your power connections at the junction box, the unit for the clock is only pulling an amp at the most, but when you try to use the ove your putting the electrial connections under a load and if not tight or right will cut off the display and main cpu unit
there is a loose connection somewhere

Apr 12, 2008 | KitchenAid Architect Series KEMC308KSS...

3 Answers

Digital Display


July 8, 2009

My display went completely dead. Been dead for a while. Just today I fixed it. You have to change a small capacitor, on display board labelled C3. Very hard to find the exact one which is, 35V - 68 microfarad, so I replaced it with 35V - 100 microfarad. Works just fine. You have to be handy, or find a friend that can do this, cause you will need to solder.

Anyways hope this helps. By the way the capacitor cost me 15 cents canadian.

Good Luck

Nov 17, 2007 | Jenn-Air JJW8230D Electric Double Oven

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