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Well, it depends on what you call a "clunk". A Harley transmission is a heavy duty transmission because the Softail is a heavy bike. They do make a noise when you downshift but it shouldn't be so loud that it's distracting. I'd try adjusting the clutch. Find the cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. It's usually located near the down tubes at the front of the frame. Slide the rubber boot up or down to access the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster barrel inwards and get as much slack in the cable as possible. The remove the derby cover from the primary cover. Inside the primary you'll see the clutch assembly and the clutch adjuster locknut and screw in the center of the assembly. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster bolt inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the adjuster bolt. Turn it inwards until you feel the resistance. Then, back the bolt back out 1/2 turn and lock the locknut. Replace the derby cover. Go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel back out until you have about 1/8 inch of free travel in the cable. Lock the locknut and replace the protective sleeve. Try this and see if it reduces the noise on downshift. Also check the lubricant level in the transmission. On the right side of the bike there is a chrome end cap on the transmission. It has a plug in it that takes a large hex key to remove. Stand the bike straight up and remove the plug. It has a dipstick on the plug. Make sure the oil level is between the two lines.
You could still have a bind in the shifting linkage or the clutch could be dragging. Take the ballcrank loose at the transmission end of the shift linkage. Check to see that the shift lever moves freely. If not, find out why and repair it.
To adjust the clutch, find the rubber bellows cover that protects the clutch cable adjuster. Slide the cover up or down to access the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the cable adjuster inwards to get as much slack as you can in the cable.
Then, stand the bike straight up and remove the derby cover. Check the oil level in the primary. It should be no higher than the lower edge of the outer clutch basket. Loosen the lock nut in the center of the clutch assembly. Turn the clutch adjuster screw inwards until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW OR YOU'LL DAMAGE THE INNER CLUTCH HUB. Turn the screw out and back in until you feel the resistance several times or until you are sure of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, turn the screw back out 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut and put the derby cover back on.
Go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel outwards until you have about an 1/8" freeplay. Work the clutch lever a few times and recheck the freeplay. Lock the lock nut and replace the rubber boot.
More than likely you need new spark plugs, or you have a bad Coil on plug. To test each coil on plug, read the following:
A commercial coil tester, available from many tool suppliers, is an excellent way to test suspect coils. If the coil can generate a spark on the tester, the coil should be in good condition.
An ohm meter can also be used to test coil winding resistance. Primary-side resistance, from coil minus to coil plus, is typically between 0.3 and 1.0 ohm on electronic ignition type coils.
Secondary resistance values vary widely, so consult a specifications chart for the engine you are servicing. If a spec chart isn't available, compare secondary readings among all the coils to see if any one is higher than the others. A high resistance indicates deterioration in the wiring. Surprisingly, a coil with high resistance may still fire the spark plug, but the voltage produced will be higher because the current must jump the open wiring in addition to jumping the spark plug gap.
You either need to adjust your clutch or you have too much oil in the primary. If the oil level is too high, it will make the clutch act like the torque converter of an automatic transmission and drag. Stand the bike straight up and check the oil level. The oil level should be higher than the lowest part of the clutch pressure plate. The pressure plate is the shiny aluminum disc with the darker black or blue clutch spring in it. The spring looks like a flat disc as it is a diaphragm type spring.
To adjust the clutch, find the cable adjuster near the down tubes at the front of the frame. Slide the rubber bellows up and loosen the locknut. Turn the adjuster inwards making the cable adjustment as loose as possible.
Now, take the derby cover off of the primary. You'll see a bolt and a locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Loosen the lock nut and turn the center screw inwards until you feel a resistance. Do not force the screw or you will destroy your inner clutch hub. Turn the bolt inwards until you feel the resistance. Now, back off 1/2 turn and lock the locknut down. Reinstall the derby cover.
Go back to the cable adjuster and adjust it outwards until you have about an 1/8" freeplay. Lock the locknut and slide the bellows cover down over the adjuster.
you have to remove the console and check the water level switch at the wire connector. make sure is not burn out and that the plastic hose is not pinch,bent. removed and blow in it. if you feel any resistance take the cabinet out and inspect. also your water level switch may be bad.
First off, you shouldn't be starting your bike with it in gear. You should start it in neutral.
Now the reason it is moving is because the clutch is not adjusted correctly. Follow the clutch cable down to where the cable adjuster is in the middle of the cable. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster inwards as far as it will go getting as much slack in the cable as possible.
Now, remove the derby cover from the outer primary cover. In the middle, you'll see a bolt and a locknut. Loosen the locknut and turn the bolt inwards until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT AS YOU'LL BE DISENGAGING THE CLUTCH. Turn it inwards until you feel the resistance. Then, back the adjuster back out 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut down.
Check the oil level in the primary. Stand the bike straight up and down and the oil level should be no higher than the lowest point on the clutch spring. If it's too high, it will cause the clutch to drag. Put the derby cover back on.
Now, at the cable adjuster, adjust the cable adjuster back out until you get approximately 1/8" freeplay. Lock the locknut
I read two contradictory things here. One the clutch is slipping and the other is it's dragging. Ok. here's something to check. Check your throwout bearing on the right side of the bike. Drain the tranny and take the clutch release cover off the transmission. The throwout beaing is a small wafer bearing about a half inch in diameter. It's held on by a miniture clip that is notorious for coming off. If during the engine swap you pull the clutch release rod outwards just a bit, the bearing could have fallen off. check this and replace if necessary.
Now if you have a stock clutch, loose the cable really loose. Break the lock nut loose in the center of the clutch assembly and turn the screw inwards until you feel the resistance. This is done AFTER you put the right side of the tranny back together. Do not force the screw. Do it several times until you get the feel of it. Once you feel the resistance, back the screw off about 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut. Adjust the cable adjuster outwards until you have 1/8" free play at the lever.
Do not overfill the primary with oil. the oil level should not be any higher than the lowest part of the clutch spring. Too much oil will cause the clutch to feel like it dragging an won't allow you to find neutral with the engine running.
Try that and see what happens. But, I'm going to tell you now, that the stock clutch is probably NOT going to hold that 127 inch engine. You're are probably going to need to beef up the clutch as well.
The transmission has gone into safe mode. This means that something is wrong, most likely the shift solenoid. I had the same model van do the same thing. It's not a terribly expensive item to have fixed.
Check the fluid to see how the level is being maintained once the van has been running for about 20 minutes. Keep it running, put it in park with the parking brake on and check the level. If it's okay, then it is probably the shift solenoid. Good luck
i am a nissan master technition in Wichita Ks. we see this problem frequently. there is an air pocket in your heater core, due to low coolant level. for some resion or another your vehical is consuming coolant (usually head gkt leaking into cyl). and sence the heater core is higher than the radiator, the air pocket gets stuck in the heater core.
wait till the vehical is cooled off, remove radiator cap, install coolant funnel (avalible at any auto parts store). lift front of vehical off the ground (to get the radiator higher than the heater core), fill coolant funnel and start engine. allow vehical to reach opperating tempature and the air pocket will work its way loose. you may need to rev engine to change coolant flow rate in atempts to remove air pocket quicker.