I have to hit the shutter a few times before I get a shot..
I have started to notice that after I turn the camera on and put on a lense it takes a few shots before i get s shot. I get a quick shutter release and a black image. It takes the d200 about 10 releases of the shutter before I get a image.
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Re: I have to hit the shutter a few times before I get a...
Great testing details ... go to your local high-end store (or wherever you bought it) and try another lens there, and try another body with your lens, try the same testing. They should have display items there.
Some of the higher end camera stores (the ones that offer free training when you buy a camera from them, all have displays that can test certain things). See if it's the lens or the camera by swapping the two with their equipment to see which it is. Then get with your reseller and have it exchanged (whatever their policy is, or have it repaired under warranty).
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The shutter is a moving part. It is also made up of several plastic leafs that rub together when opening and closing. Lift the mirror to see if any of them are damaged. You will have to fire the shutter each time before you look as there are 2 sets of shutter leafs. 1 set at the top and 1 set at the bottom firing in rotation. 1 set is of 4 and 1 set is of 2 leafs. also check the action of the mirror. Both are run from the same motor and both have springs to help operation. metal on plastic tends to wear so how many shots have been fired? To check shutter count look up astrojargon and download the EOSinfo software (free) and plug your camera in to your pc. Should give you a shutter count.
If the AF is set to release then the camera will release the shutter before focus is attained. Set it to focus only and see if it improves. Don't leave it like that, you will miss pictures. Shoot some pictures with the center AF point only in single release and see if the focus is consistently landing in front of or behind what you wanted in focus. A penny on the sidewalk shot at a 45 degree angle in aperture priority with the lowest A number possible is a good quick one. For super fine tuning with a f2.8 or faster use a fuzzy plant branch like a tomato plant. If whats in focus is always in front of or behind what you focused on then you need too adjust the focus(back focus) in AF fine tune until it lands where it should. It's an annoying process that involves shooting, adjusting, shoot again, see if its better or worse, adjust, shoot and repeat. On zoom lenses use the middle on the zoom range because it will usually go from back to front focusing on the long and short end. The camera remembers each lens and the process must be repeated for each lens. Last thing I can think of is the one that no one wants to hear and is most likely the problem, Camera Handling. People have a tendency to get sloppy after getting use to a camera. I have noticed that the VR lenses don't like people that stab the shutter button. It wants to remove fine vibration and a harsh stab makes it jump back to center and if the shutter opens at the same time it will put fine motion blur in the picture and looks out of focus.
Yes it could. It is possible a small dirt get on the side of the lense and it prevents the lense to close all the way in. Clean it up and while turning the camera off, push the lense in. Not too hard. You might have to repeat the step a few times. Do not drop your camera, if you did make sure you clean the sides of the popped off lense. If they did not help, some mechanical part of the lense is shifted or broken.
1- some dirt somehow got on the outside of side of the lense. So the lense could not fully retract or open out. As a result you can take any picture. If the lense comes out even a little bit, try to pull it out NOT too hard a few times. If it does not retract, turn the camera off and push the lense in (up and down) NOT too hard foe a few times. If the camera opened up 100% or retracted 100%, your camera should be back to normal.
2- If you dropped the camera, some mechanical part of the lense is broken or dislocated or the cable may have come loose. In this case you need to take out the lense from the camera and inpect it for broken pieces or loose cable. clean the outside of the lense and push the lense in and out a few times. Put the lense back on and your camera would be back to normal.
Most likely the shutter "curtain" (a few pieces looking like sheet metal just behind the mirror, designed to protect the camera CCD from dust and damage due to too much light) is not opening. This will require servicing by Olympus, since you will have to take the camera apart to be able to reach this camera part. Unfortunately, this may be a pretty expensive repair.
do you mean the shutter doesn't close all the way? put select on B , gently push shutter to the left to fully close the shutter. charge shutter and fire it a few times, it should free itself after a few shots.
any mechanical device needs a periodic clean, lube & adjust, ( CLA ), after not being used for 5 years your X350 just needs that. take it or send to a camera repair shop for an estimate first. there are no new parts available for this model minolta.
Yes. You can even choose between 2 seconds and 10 seconds. Put the people in the shot. Focus the camera on them by holding the shutter button down halfway, and without releasing the shutter button, press the button all the way down to start the self-timer. (That's what the manual says. I go into the menu on the camera and set it up that way.) To do it from the menu: when the camera is on, hit the menu/ok key. The self-timer mode will pop up. Hit the right arrow. Here you can choose between the 2 and 10 second timer options. Select one. The timer won't start until you have pressed the shutter button halfway to focus and press the shutter button all the way down as stated earlier.
Take the lens off and continue pressing the shutter untill it doesn't react anymore, you should then have a normal menu without the error message.Put your lens on and you're all sorted.Cheaper and less hassle than sending it to Nikon. olly
I would use 1/250 on either shutter priority 'S' or manual 'M' Set the f-stop to match your combined flash output. f4 to f5.6 should get you good results regardless of what the camera tells you. It has no way of knowing that you are using a slave strobe. Shoot some shots during a practice time and bracket the fstops to get an idea.