I have a rlv4300 wired to a fan forced wall mounted heater when desired temperature is reaches heater shuts off for 3 or 4 seconds then comes on again over and over is this normal

answer is in instructions
Save-Smart®
Press () to activate the Save-Smart®Function.
1.Set the thermostat to desired temperature using the +/-
buttons (Note: The default Save-Smart®temperature is 72 ? F)
2.When you reach the temperature at which you want to
set the unit, the set temperature will flash several times
and then the display will return to indicate the current
room temperature and will gradually change as the
room temperature changes.
3.When the air temperature is less than the set temperature,
the heater will run in HIGH heat.
4.Once the thermostat reaches the set temperature the heater
will automatically switch to LOW heat to save energy.
5.When the air temperature reaches 4? above the set temperature,
the heater will turn off. The Heater will cycle off and on in the LOW
mode to maintain the set temperature.
All this happens automatically with Lasko Save-Smart®Technology.
To deactivate the Save-Smart®function, press Save-Smart®
again or (hi/lo) for continuous high/low heat.

AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL(Figure 3)
The automatic temperature function will only operate on "High" heat.
You cannot set the temperature automatically when the unit is in the low heat mode.
1.To set the room at a specific temperature press the () or()buttons
to the desired temperature. The display will now reflect the () and the temperature will be flashing. The Heater is now in Auto Temperature Mode.
2.When you reach the temperature at which you want to set the unit, the set temperature will flash several times and then the display will return to indicate the current room temperature and will gradually change as the room temperature changes. NOTE: the temperature display does not indicate the temperature of the heated air being emitted by the heater.
3.Once the room temperature reaches 2 degrees above the set temperature, the Heater will shut off. Once the room temperature reaches 1 degree below the set temperature, the Heater will turn back on and continue to cycle off and on to maintain the set temperature.
4.This function will cancel if the ()button is pressed. The Heater will now be in High heat and run continuously.
NOTE:It is normal for the Heater "fan" to run for approximately 15 seconds when the Heater shuts off after reaching the set temperature.Press the () and() buttons at the same time to change the display to ° Celsius. Press the same two buttons together again to change the display
back to ° Fahrenheit.

It always helps to add the model number of the item you want help on. However if it's like the newer units, the fan operates whenever the heater wall has reached a high enough temperature and shuts off when the heater cools off. It is not wired into your thermostat or electrically wired to the heater. It does that with a temperature driven fan switch in a little junction box mounted to the heater. Normally when that box gets hot because the heater is on the fan comes on, when it cools off the fan goes off. The junction box will have an ac cord coming out of it. If this fan switch junction box is not properly mounted it could be getting cooled off when the fan starts and then shuts itself off. After it heats up again it starts the fan. The other possibility is the temperature based fan switch is failing and needs replacement. See link.

http://www.cozyheaters.com/graphics/products/manuals_installation/CDV.pdf

you will have to look into why the unit is tripping and needs resetting. Heaters usually have a fan delay, meaning that when the heat is satisfied, the fan continues to run for about an minute. If not, it could cause an overheating issue and trip a safety. Look for that to start with.

You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Most T-Stats have a On / Auto on a forced air system. On means the fan will run all the time even if it is not calling for heat. Auto only runs when calling for heat. Does the fan turn off in the auto mode at all? To test it...BE SURE THE FAN IS IN THE AUTO MODE ON THE T-STAT... Turn the thermostat all the way down and keep it there for appox 15 mins. If it is wired properly and the fan limit is set properly the fan should turn off. If it doesn't it is not the thermostat were the problem lies.

Most forced air units have a fan / high limit switch. There is a setting on the switch for the fan to turn on and a setting for the fan to turn off or it has a setting and a differental switch for it to turn off/on. Example - the fan comes on when the temp in the heat exchanger reaches 110 degrees F and will shut down at 95 degrees F after the thermostat is satified...this would hav a differental of 15 degrees F. It may be set to low and the fan continues to run long after all of the heat has been removed from the heat exchanger. This in turn will cause cool air to be coming out of the registers.

it could be the thermostat on the wall not working or the fan control is not working as it should also check to see if air filter is blocked

UNIT SOUNDS LIKE ITS SHUTTING DOWN ON A LIMIT SWITCH IN HEATER. THEY LOOK LIKE ROUND BUTTONS OF DIFFERENT SIZES. THE HAVE 2 WIRES GOING TO THEM AND THEY ARE A NORMALLY CLOSED. THERE IS A FAN DISK NORMALLY OPEN TO UNTILL IT GETS HOT AND CLOSES TO TURN ON FAN.  IF THE FAN SWITCH TAKES TO LONG TO CLOSE THEN LIMIT OPENS TO PROTECT FROM OVER-HEATING

The fan limiting switch is acting up. It should stay running until lower temp is reached. It will cycle until the temp stays below or at the low setting. Limit switches are adjustable.

the reset is probably an inline circuit breaker. if you can get hold of am amprobe clamp around ammeter, check the current when the unit is running at full power. the reading you get check against the current rating of the inline breaker. your fan motor bearings may be dry increasing the current draw of the unit and tripping the breaker. try oiling the fan bearings with a light oil NOT WD-40.