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When this unit runs it doesn't get very warm. I checked the elements they are good. I read 211 volts on each of the 6 elements, and 22 volts on the control side??

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Did u check the element for continuity?

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.

Posted on Mar 30, 2015

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You should take a picture before removing anything to make sure that you get the leads connected up correctly.

You have a main perk element and a keep warm element in the base of the pot. Plus a thermostat pressed against the bottom to sense temperature. Upon plugging in a cold pot, the thermostat reads zero ohms and applies 120 volts all to the perk element. Then when the thermostat senses a high enough temp, it opens and 120 volts is still applied to the perk heating element, but this time through the keep warm element (about 200 ohms or so). So now the perk element although hot is not hot enough to continue perking, just keeps your already perked coffee warm.

On a cold pot, you should read about 17 ohms looking into the pot...on a warm pot (with the thermostat opened up) you will read in the hundreds of ohms.

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whenever you read out any part with a meter you have to pull at least one of the wires off of the part you're checking,unplug the machine,slide it out,remove the back panel so you can see the broil wires and the ends of the element,pull off the wires and check it with a meter for continuity,set the meter on 20k ohms,touch the leads together and it should read anything but 1,then touch the leads to the ends of the element, if it stays on 1 the element is bad if you get any other reading other than 1 the element is good,also while you're back there but be careful,plug the machine back in with the element wired, set the meter to volts and check to see if you get 120 volts to the broil element if the element checks good,if you check the bake element you should have 240 volts,if the element is good you could have a broken wire or a bad computer board or also called the clock assy.i've seen the elements burn and break and short out the clock assy. and it doesn't mean the clock doesn't work,it's the way they're built the computer board is built in with the clock that's all so if the computer board gets damaged the clock still can work so if you check it with a meter

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The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

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Did you read ~220 volts AC across the two slanted blades of the power socket? The motor and controls usually run on 115 volts. When the timer is set to dry, press start, and look for ~220 volts at the heater element connections. (Don't let the heater reach full heat if it starts working!) You may have to short the door switch connections to get the unit to run. If you don't read 220 volts at the plug, check the output from each breaker of the dryer pair (should read 115 volts to neutral). Hope this helps!

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Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
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Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
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