Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
E20 is a general error code to get to the real problem try this..
Reading Error Codes 1. Wake the washer by pressing any button. 2. Wait 5 seconds. 3. Press and hold the START/PAUSE and CANCEL buttons simultaneously. As long as the buttons are held, the failure code will appear in the display as an “E” followed by two numbers, a number and a letter or two letters. The control will beep and the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin indicator lights will flash. let me know what code come up... hope it helps
Posted on Sep 19, 2009
"F6" is a Motor Speed error problem. It is commonly attributed to a broken or slipped drive belt, defective Drive Motor, or bad Motor Control Unit (MCU). The following link explains:
First, remove the back panel of the unit and make sure the drive belt is not broken, or has not slipped off the drum pulley.
Then, remove the top panel of the washer and check all the connector plugs between the Drive Motor, MCU and Central Control Unit (CCU). Check for loose connections and then unplug each connector and plug them back in (one at a time) to ensure they are snug and making good contact. The top panel comes off by removing the three screws that hold it in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off.
NOTE: You only need to check the connectors that affect the drive motor and MCU circuitry.
The MCU has a tachometer mounted on it. If it is determined to be the cause of the problem, it is considered part of the MCU and cannot be replaced separately. The MCU is not serviceable and will require replacement.
Next, check the motor windings to ensure they are reading the proper resistance. Followed by continuity checks of all the interconnecting wiring between the drive motor, MCU and CCU. You should not need a service manual because each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet.
For more in depth troubleshooting tips refer to your tech sheet located inside the washer behind the lower toe panel. You will need to locate and remove the screws under the bottom front edge of the toe panel. Once removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't located directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. The tech sheet includes all error codes, test points, diagnostic procedures and helpful illustrations to assist in troubleshooting and repair of your washer.
If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Feb 25, 2010
The F1 error code on this washer indicates a Primary Control Board failure.
It is likely that the machine control board will need to be replaced to correct this problem.
The part number for the machine control board is undetermineable because you have not provided me with the exact model # of your washer.
The procedure for replacing the machine control board is provided HERE
NOTE: Be sure to unplug the washer to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components.
There is a slight possibility that a problem with the pressure switch hose could be causing this problem.
A pinched or twisted air hose can cause this fault code.
When you open the console, check the air hose connected to the pressure switch on the machine control board.
If it is pinched or crimped, I recommend rerouting the hose to resolve this problem.
This may fix your problem without replacing the control board.
NOTE: You may want to check for this condition before ordering the control board. Most electronic control boards cannot be returned for a refund or credit.
If you find no apparent problems with the air hose on the pressure switch, then replacing the machine control board on this washer should correct your problem. There is a risk involved in replacing this part yourself.
As noted above, you could have a problem with the air pressure hose that is not apparent upon your initial inspection. A service technician would normally need to properly and thoroughly diagnose this problem before replacing the control board.
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Posted on Sep 18, 2010
"F20" is a No Water Detect error. It is an indication that you either have no water coming into the washer, or very little water at all. If the pressure switch has not tripped after 6 minutes, the error code is displayed. This can be a potential problem with the following:
If you have NO water in the wash tub, check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions:
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
- Verify wire harness connections at the pressure switch, inlet valves, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU).
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
To access the Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a plastic air hose attached. Verify the electrical connections are intact, and the air hose is attached and not cracked or leaking.
To access the Central Control Unit (CCU) - with the top panel of the washer removed, the CCU is located directly behind, and just above the rear of the wash tub. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the lower panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics and to verify the wire connections at the CCU. In addition, the tech sheet will also assist in how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
F35 is a water level error.
The water level switch (pressure switch) has malfunctioned.
If you remove the top panel, three screws in the back, you will have access to the pressure switch.
With the tub empty, remove the vinyl hose from the switch and blow backwards through the hose to clear any restrictions.
If the fault codes return after doing this, you will likely need to replace the pressure switch.
Also - please be sure to use He soap.
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Posted on Sep 26, 2010
"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.
Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:
- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.
In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.
NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.
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Posted on Sep 27, 2010
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