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No ice being produced.

Freezer Compartment is working fine. The ice maker is not producing ice.

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 5,323 Answers

ICE MAKER not making ice:

Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary.

WATER INLET VALVE:

Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY:

If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.

If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.

This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced

On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.

Posted on Apr 11, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: Ice maker isn't making ice...

check the white plastic lever inside the ice box. it needs to be in the down position to make ice and is probably stuck.

Posted on May 04, 2008

philbran
  • 242 Answers

SOURCE: The ice maker (GE Profile

If the unit is freezing well in the freezer and your ice bin is defrosting or ice is melting together it is your ice maker over filling the tray causing water to leak into the bin. You can purchase kits that contain all ice maker parts needed , it may be the ice maker and it may be the water inlet valve in the back , both come in the kit , go to sears parts on line with the model number from your unit.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: ice maker been working fine, just stopped?

If no ice is being made at all it is probably one of three problems. The ice maker itself needs replacing. The water inlet valve needs replacing. Or the freezer is not 10 degrees or less. You will need to test the water valve solenoids. If you have water in the door then there will be two solenoids. One for the ice maker water and one for the water in the door. They are both mounted on the same assembly. The easiest way for you to test is with a meter. You want to check for continuity on the solenoid for the ice maker. If no continuity, it is bad. If you have both water in the door and ice maker and no meter you can swap the two quick disconnects on the two solenoids and then see if you still get water from the door by now using the other solenoid. If you do not, then you know that, that solenoid is bad. If the soloind is good then you probably have a bad ice maker not calling the ice maker fill valve to allow water.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker not producing any ice.

Pour about 1/2 cup of water into icemaker . Squeeze the black fill tub which is above the icemaker cup . If ice apears to be in it , this indicates that the weter valve is not completely closing , letting a drip ocasionally go thru and freezing inside the tube , ( water valve bad ) . that will be a different solution . If the icemaker dumps the cubes after freezing . and black tube is not frozen , replace the water inlet valve . If the icemaker does not dump the ice after frozen , replace the icemaker ( only 1 screw holds the icemaker in , located on rear portion on right , faceing down . Also check the icemaker rake , which should be about the 2:30 position . To thaw out the black tube (which runs thru the top of the refrig ) a 1/4 push on connector will be needed . Remove the icemaker and use a hairdryer aimed up into the hole . Cut the tubing to the fill tub behind the fridge about 9 inches from where it enters the top of the fridge . This will let warm air inside the top fill line to help thaw . Ocassionally blow thru the 9 inch tube until you can blow thru it . May take a day or 2 , depending how frozen the line is . Once air will go thru , install the push on connector to couple the cut lines back togather .

The blinking red light on the right side , is the receiver for the electric eye for cutting off the icemaker when the door bin is full , This blinking is normal . 2 blinks ...pause...2 blinks..etc .

Do not replace the filter if water flow is good thru the dispensor .

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

  • 1218 Answers

SOURCE: Ice maker not working

Good day,
There are more than one reason for your problem. If the freezer is at normal temperature then use the following. It will pin point the problem.
First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

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The ice maker has a problem The ice maker is a separate appliance within the freezer section. Please see the How things Work section of our website to learn about the normal functioning of ice makers. Some common problems with ice makers are:

The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.

The ice maker is producing ice poorly When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.

First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.

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The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.

The ice maker is producing ice poorly When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.

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Hello jitkagardner,
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You said, The ice maker in my whirlpool gold refrigerator Model No, GR2FHTXTBOO, is not working.

How old is the fridge?
When have you last changed the water filter.
Should be down below at the front grille!
Try these tasks!

If the ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice
Refrigerator connected to a water supply and the supply
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• Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce
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• New installation? Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation
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• Freezer door closed completely? Firmly close the freezer
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close all the way, see "The doors will not close completely."
• Large amount of ice recently removed? Allow 24 hours for
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• Ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm?
Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil.
• Water filter installed on the refrigerator? Remove filter and
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• Reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to
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Let me know how it goes!
Huuum
Please remember to leave a rating!


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Found in the FAQ section on Samsung.com:
Samsung refrigerator freezers produce about 120 cubes per day, which is in line with most manufacturer specifications.
Empty the ice tray and let the unit run for 24 hours.
If fewer than 50 cubes are produced during the 24-hour test, then your refrigerator requires service. Please contact Samsung Service at 1-800-SAMSUNG to schedule a service appointment.
If your freezer is producing 50 to 90 cubes per day, try the following:
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  • If you have a water filter in your refrigerator, change the filter cartridge. For instructions, see your Users Manual.
If you want your freezer to produce more than 120 ice cubes in a day, try the following:
  • An ice maker typically makes 1 tray of ice every 90 minutes. To shorten the amount of time the freezer takes to produce a tray of ice, set the freezer temperature display to a lower setting.
  • If your refrigerator has a Power Freeze function, press the Power Freeze button to speed up the ice making process. In the Power Freeze mode, both the compressor and the freezer fan run for 10 hours continuously. The ice making interval is reduced from 90 minutes to 55 minutes. If the ice bucket fills in less than 10 hours, Power Freeze stops automatically.
NOTE: If you have just installed your refrigerator, it will take 6 to 12 hours for the refrigerator to produce ice.
You should throw away the first three batches of ice cubes that the ice maker produces (approximately 30 cubes) to ensure the ice maker is making ice from clean water.

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