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How to access the oven cycling relay

Where's it?

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More than likely back of stove behind head unit?

Posted on Mar 29, 2015

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Maytag range model mer6750 - I tried to open the oven door too soon after a self cleaning cycle Now door won't open and fault code F9-2 appeared. What to do? THANK YOU


Try unplugging the oven from the electrical power. May release the lock, which is held in place by a tiny micro switch. If not and while the electric is still off or the oven is unplugged, use a bright light flashlight to look through the slot where the lock is in the oven, not in the door.
You may be able to use a thin blade screwdriver to move the lock to the release position. Check the angle of the lever. A slightly bent lever handle also can cause this type of condition.

If all else fails, remove the access panel on the front of the oven to access the locking device and release it. May have to disconnect the wires to the lock which will allow door to function but not during any self cleaning modes.

F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock
F-2 Oven temperature sensed by electronic control Replace the clock/relay board.
Here is the part you need to order.

May 18, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Electric range surface elements not working after self clean cycle.


It sounds like it is broken. You can bypass it by connecting the 2 wires together. This should be fine until you replace it. They aren't that expensive.

Mar 06, 2013 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL ACCUBAKE RANGE, THE OVEN AND BROILER DOES NOT WORK. CHANGED SPARK MODULE AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. ANY SOLUTIONS?????


There are four other things to check on the oven, you will have to run a test on the broiler element, oven thermostat, selector switch and the oven cycling relay.
To test the broiler element, To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.
There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.
To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.
Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.
Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.
If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.
To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.
To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.
To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals
To test the oven thermostat: Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
To test the selector switch: In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial. Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
To test the oven cycling relay: In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Hope this was helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 27, 2011 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Bake element will not shut off at set temp.


You need to check the oven cycle relay,
  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
  2. In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located.
  3. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced.
  4. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Then you check the oven thermostat: When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this information helped you.

Jan 14, 2011 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

I opened the door before the self cleaning cycle was finished? It was blowing and I thought my husband left it on when he left. I came home and walked past it and felt the air, so I pushed oven off and...


You have most likely caused one or more fuse relays to blow.
The self-clean operation can not be interrupted before the cycle is complete without causing issues.
There is the main fuse inside the control panel and 2 fuse relays on rear of the oven.
In order to access these fuses you must open the door,then remove the mounting screws to remove the oven from its cabinet..
Use a wire coat hanger bent into a "U" shape on one end.
The door latch is in the center of the door on the top oven.
Slide the bent wire coat hanger between the door and the oven opening.
The "U" of the coat hanger will be right center of the door latch.
Slowly pull the "U" to the left until it catches the latch.
Then pull steady and forcefully to pull the latch mechanism to the left while putting pressure on the door to open it.
Once the door is open you can begin to access the parts for diagnosis and repair.

Nov 28, 2010 | Whirlpool RBD305PD Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

When i use the oven how do i get the clicking to stop where the clock area is at when baking in it


Hello,

I have good new`s and not bad news. Nearly all late model ranges be they gas or electric with electronic oven control`s/clocks have relay`s which control the cycling of the oven element`s/burners. Some "click" louder than other`s however, they all do it.

The good news is this, if your oven is working/heating normal otherwise than what you are hearing is simply the relay`s opening and closing as the oven cycles and therefore nothing is wrong.

The not bad news is this, ( or maybe it is bad new`s...sorry to be the one ) the sound you`re hearing is simply the relay`s cycling the oven and it is normal...but no you cannot get rid of this "clicking" sound.

Hope this answer`s your question. If not let me know and I`ll try to assist you further. If so, please rate the info I provided here accordingly.

Thank you for visiting "fixya" today and good luck moving forward.

macmarkus :)

Mar 19, 2010 | Kenmore 92022 / 92024 / 92025 / 92029...

1 Answer

Electric oven will not maintain temperature. drops 20 degrees


Jump online & get the schematics for your oven.. You'll need to troubleshoot the bake circuit, which is comprised of 2 - 120VAC legs (240VAC is applied during bake). One 120VAC leg is from the DLB relay and the other is from the Bake relay. if either one is bad, or not energizing, you won't get any power to the bake element. (The bake element runs 100% of the time during the bake cycle. broiler only operates 25% of the time during bake) I have had luck re-soldering the relay leg nodes on the backside of the relay board, as they develop "opens" over time. The relays are designed for ridiculous ##s of cycles, so they're not *usually* bad.

Dec 23, 2009 | Amana AOCS3040 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

After self cleaning cycle powere is on but elements won't come on


There is a thermal relay on the rear of the oven that tends to blow during self clean cycles. It is the most likely problem.
Remove the oven,turn off the power,remove the rear panel to access the thermal relay.It is not re-settable. It must be replaced.

Oct 01, 2009 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

F2 fault, continuous fan after clean cycle for Jenn-Air electric convection wall oven. I haved turned off power at breaker and restarted. Fault reoccurs. Oven is definitely cool. It has been 36 hrs...


The "F2" means the oven control senses runaway temperature. The cause of the problem could be the oven sensor, the oven sensor wire harness or the power relay board.
PS:please disconnect your oven from power supply completely before continuing.

Open the control panel and measure the oven sensor resistance at the control board. It suppose to be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature.

If the reading is wrong do the same test at the oven sensor connection (where the sensor wires goes through the back panel).

If the reading is still wrong - replace the oven sensor.

If the reading is correct, check the wire harness and the connector itself (it's better to eliminate the plastic plug and hardwire the oven sensor).

If there is nothing wrong then the power relay board has to be replaced.

Nov 07, 2008 | Jenn-Air JJW8530C Expressions Collection...

2 Answers

Won't heat


theres a oven control/ dislay kit that needs to be replaced to fix both of thoughs problems at the same time

Nov 24, 2007 | Thermador SMW272 Electric Double Oven

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