Question about Televison & Video
Refer to the http://electro-medical.blogspot.ca/2013/12/led-blinking-codes-panasonic-plasma-tvs.html
Posted on Mar 29, 2015
The plug my not be in all the way try fixing it if that doesn't work then get a repair man to help or it may e the electrical system
Posted on Mar 29, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The above fix, listed by Tom saved us!! We did as instructed and took off the back of our 50 inch Magnavox plasma tv. We were not sure what we were looking for so we googled capacitator (image) & there was a photo of a fried capacitator! Sure enough we noticed ours were "fried", we took out the board and went to an electronic supply store, bought the 2 capacitators ($2.00 each!!) and then found someone who did tv repair to sauter the new capacitators onto the board. (It is important someone who know how to sauter and recognizes polarity do do this for you) All in all we fixed this following the above instructions for $34.00 and our time. For a month we were told to spend hundreds getting a new power board!
Kudos to you Tom & thanks so much!!
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
With this symptom, it is impossible to tell what the exact "Cause" of this symptom is. The LED's do not tell us what is wrong, sometimes it may indicate the "Area" in your case it is the X board. BUT thats NOT where the "Fault is" thats just the part that is affected. These days unlike the "Old" analogue days it just isn't realistically possible to fix anything but the most basic of problems with todays sophisticated units. This is quite apart from the Safety aspect, any unit that can cause a firs or have an explosion, or both, is NOT to be treated lightly, and and the repairer, of the unit is legally responsible, another thing to think about. Also, one must have tools, a Multimeter, a soldering iron, a deslodering iron, an oscilloscope, a signal tracer, tools, and most important of all, a Service Manual, without which, there is no way to even begin to understand and fix it, and more importantly Program it, AFTER it has been fixed. As these days a TV, is a PC, a Tuner, and an HDTV Monitor, and more, all in one. in the "old" days TV"s were more, rudimentary, and built to last for 20 years, and a "Parts" supply was set aside. They usually used to fail for only a few reasons, and they while still difficult, were less difficult to repair. Electrical knowledge was transferable, and they could be and would respond to, This-is-the-symptom-This-us-the-Fix, But that no longer applies, as now, it can be a Fault on I squared Bus, or "Sensor" failure, or it simple may have "Crashed" just like a PC, It could be a Diode go bad, and that will stop the whole thing. You see, in the day, the sets were Very "Fault Tolerant" because they were Analouge, and a faulty, component, or more sometimes, the set would always diplay something usually, and when they didn't it was one of anly a few things, sure there are always the horrid ones, and there are pleanty of those, but all in all it was quite easy. But with Digital Electronics, it either goes, or it doesnt, there are usualy few half measures. I mean thats the definition of logic either going or not. So it can take very little to completely paralyse a set, and generally give the only sysmptom, it can, by not working, usually No picture, or the like. So you, see the list is endless almost for any given SYMPTOM, as that is what is being seen, not the cause, as I keep going on about. Also any fault, usually involves the Power Supply, it is either the cause, the cause of the damage, or it is damaged. or ALL of them. Then after you have done the electronic repairs, you then must program the set to work, and align, and set up in general, any one of those settings missed or done wrong, back to square one.
So, it is nearly always my professional opinion that one should always get a "Quote" form the manufacturers recommended service center, I cannot stress how important that last point is. It is even worth the cost of shipping. you see an authorised service agent, will have trained staff, trained on their brand, also they have first hand access to parts, original parts. This will actually save you money and ensure you can actually get it back fixed. Of course asking for a "Quote" also gives on the option of repair or replace. Often my clients,do not go through with repair, unless it is moderate, but in some of the more costly jobs they see it, as do i, that a replacement, with a warranty, is a better option. As an aside here, one could then tear the TV down, and sell the Known Good bits. You'd be surprised who needs parts, i myself often must by from third party sources to effect a repair. So money could be recouped, somewhat,and help out someone else. Anyway thats my 10c worth.
Posted on Apr 02, 2010
hi, i have the same unit and did the same as yours i open it up and it had a blown fuse on the main board there four fuses. mines had ones of the two fuses on the right lower corner of the main board blown out i replaced it and worked fine again.
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
Testimonial: "Ours ended up being a blown fuse too. $2 and we are back in business! YEAH!"
SOURCE: I have the Philips 50
There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it on, it may eventually stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for 5 mins, then try.
If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).
Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.
I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.
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(do not delete)
As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.
Posted on Mar 25, 2011
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