Question about Dryers
Drum turns upon hitting start button, but get no coil heating on most of the positions on heater control: automatic or timed dry
Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.
Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.
Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.
Posted on Apr 03, 2015
Testimonial: "Jhonny Rendon, Wow! Your comments were terifi!. It turned out my problem was confined to the coils. What surprised me was that when I applied AC directly to the coils, my analysis was that the three terminal coil was bad, and the two terminal coil OK, based on the sound of the response: 2 terminal- could hear the clank of the gas valve opening or closing 3 terminal-just a buzzing sound, thinking it was bad. The new parts gave exactly the same response to direct AC, I thought I had a bad gas valve assembly. WRONG! Everything worked great when I turned on the unit. I never had to take off the rear cover of the dryer, which probably had the schematic and some of the active thermostats. The air flow out of outside exhaust vent was very strong, so I was sure I didn't have any lint build up blocking the flow. My ancient VOM only gave a rough estimate of resistance of coils, around 800 to 1K ohms. Being able to see the igniter glow red, and then see the gas flame up helped my understanding of the functioning of the igniter, fire sensor, and gas valves. My summer house has a gas dryer that doesn't work in auto mode, only timed dry. I'll spend some time looking for the sensor that controls it and buy a replacement. Thanks for all the info in your reply. Retired-lucky"
Coil is probably bad, they get a crack in them and will not work. If you have a an ohm meter you can disconnect power and check it
Posted on Mar 29, 2015
Testimonial: "D.E. Hev, Thanks for the quick reply! Do I have to open up one of the power leads and then measure resistance? Also parts diagram says I have a dual coil setup: 2 terminal main, and 3 terminal pilot. Buy the $20 Coil Kit?"
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 01, 2009 | Dryers
Jul 07, 2009 | Maytag Dryers
Jun 14, 2009 | Maytag Dryers
Jun 02, 2009 | Dryers
Jan 03, 2009 | Dryers
Dec 22, 2008 | Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer
Dec 21, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer
Dec 16, 2008 | Dryers
Sep 12, 2008 | Dryers
72 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!