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2 Answers

What part provides power to coils to ignite gas, and what would cause the igniter to suddenly shut off after five minutes?

Drum turns upon hitting start button, but get no coil heating on most of the positions on heater control: automatic or timed dry

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  • 4 more comments 
  • Jay Wartell Mar 29, 2015

    Please see my comments below, both coils seem to be OK

  • D. E. Hev Mar 29, 2015

    The test is do they have power to them when they shut down if so it is a coil and they are usualy in series so when one goes open it shuts down both What Make and model is it?

  • Jay Wartell Mar 30, 2015

    Follow-on to above D.E. Hev answer: Kenmore 110.74972300.(10 yrs old)

  • Jay Wartell Mar 30, 2015

    I have the parts diagram. Is schematic on inside of back panel. Will running it with missing lwr frt panel cause it to shut off? If I wait ~ 30 m +, it will start up OK, but shut off in 3-4 minutes. "Coils tested OK for low resistance

  • Jay Wartell Mar 30, 2015

    Don't know how to get VOM test leads on the "coils" while connector is plugged in. Do I have to open up upper rear panel to get to Timer control output jacks?ed it

  • D. E. Hev Apr 02, 2015

    That would be easiest and there is usualy a wiring diagram in the machine

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  • Dryers Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.
Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.
Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.
Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Posted on Apr 03, 2015

Testimonial: "Jhonny Rendon, Wow! Your comments were terifi!. It turned out my problem was confined to the coils. What surprised me was that when I applied AC directly to the coils, my analysis was that the three terminal coil was bad, and the two terminal coil OK, based on the sound of the response: 2 terminal- could hear the clank of the gas valve opening or closing 3 terminal-just a buzzing sound, thinking it was bad. The new parts gave exactly the same response to direct AC, I thought I had a bad gas valve assembly. WRONG! Everything worked great when I turned on the unit. I never had to take off the rear cover of the dryer, which probably had the schematic and some of the active thermostats. The air flow out of outside exhaust vent was very strong, so I was sure I didn't have any lint build up blocking the flow. My ancient VOM only gave a rough estimate of resistance of coils, around 800 to 1K ohms. Being able to see the igniter glow red, and then see the gas flame up helped my understanding of the functioning of the igniter, fire sensor, and gas valves. My summer house has a gas dryer that doesn't work in auto mode, only timed dry. I'll spend some time looking for the sensor that controls it and buy a replacement. Thanks for all the info in your reply. Retired-lucky"

  • 1 more comment 
  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 06, 2015

    yOUR WELCOME HAPPY TO HAVE BEEN ABLE TO HELP U. AS FOR UR AUTO MODE VS TIMED MODE DRYING? n timed dry power is usually directly from the line. In auto modes it often gets power through the heating element when the element is turned off. There is usually a resistor in the circuit that reduces the 240 heater volts down to 120 volts for the timer motor.

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 06, 2015

    In the above type dryer if the element is grounded it never shuts off so the auto cycle does not advance.

  • Jorge Rendon
    Jorge Rendon Apr 06, 2015

    Also could be your temperature selector switch has a set of contacts welded together.

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  • Master
  • 1,179 Answers

Coil is probably bad, they get a crack in them and will not work. If you have a an ohm meter you can disconnect power and check it

Posted on Mar 29, 2015

Testimonial: "D.E. Hev, Thanks for the quick reply! Do I have to open up one of the power leads and then measure resistance? Also parts diagram says I have a dual coil setup: 2 terminal main, and 3 terminal pilot. Buy the $20 Coil Kit?"

  • 4 more comments 
  • Jay Wartell Mar 29, 2015

    I checked both coils after removing connectors and get continuity( very low ohms) on both. What next?

  • D. E. Hev Mar 29, 2015

    But if they ignite and then go out the coil could still have a crack tha opens up only when it gets hot or you could have a faulty heat sensor that is turning it off

  • D. E. Hev Mar 29, 2015

    Check to se if you are getting power to the coil when you turn it on, if it is then shutting off after it heats up

  • D. E. Hev Mar 29, 2015

    You say that in your original post it shuts off after heat up if so I would lean towards a cracked heater and if it is only 20 for both as a kit your getting off cheap, mine was 48 for one

  • Jay Wartell Mar 30, 2015

    D.E. Hev, pls read my follow-on new question. What is called a "coil" seems to me a solenoid, which turns on current to a glow coil at the tip of the burner assembly.

  • Jay Wartell Mar 30, 2015

    D. E. Hev, u wrote me "But if they ignite and then go out the coil could still have a crack tha opens up only when it gets hot or you could have a faulty heat sensor that is turning it off"

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