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I have a fairly new Kenmore 18,500 BTU window ac/heat pump. Why did it stop heating but blows cold air?

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  • Kenmore Master
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Heat strip, fusible link or switch defective.

Posted on Aug 14, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: reverse unit. Heater only blows air, not warm air

If you have a reverse cycle unit (heat pump) your compressor and your fan should be running. You need to determine if your compressor is running.

Posted on Nov 08, 2007

Accurate Joe
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: Electric furnace blows cold air before and after warm air.

It is normal. Your house has to go down a couple more degrees because the heat pump is not working. You can solve this by rewirng you thermostat. Take off the wire that goes to Y and tape off. Then take the wires that are marked w and e or w1 and put the wires to yellow. Do not run ac with it wired like this. If you need more information please post me back

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: my heat pump blows cold air for the first 10 minutes or so

Don't know how long you have had a heat pump but thats the nature of them in colder weather. Some people prefer to switch to "emergency heat" on the t-stat when temps fall below 20 or 25 degrees. This bypasses the heat pump and allows your back-up heat to heat the house. If your house is total electric your emergency heat is an electric furnace and it should handle the load if it was sized properly. Don't leave it on emergency when it warms up because your heat pump is much cheaper to operate than the furnace. As always, check your air filter since it can restrict the amount of air that moves thru the furnace, which is critical. Hope this helps

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

diths_kri
  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: My Heater blows cold air

IGNITE PROBLEM

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Amana Heat Pump Emergency Heat will not come on

On the heating element [behind the coil, (the springy thing)], at the top end of the element, there is a little thermistor I think it is called. You will have to remove the fan shroud. With the power off, check for continuity if you have a multimeter. If that is the problem (no continuity), you can pick one up at al local heating supply. Just have it soldered back in and reconnect. If the thermistor 's continuity is okay, remove the main board under the control knobs. I have seen these boards burn in the back where the relays are soldered on. If you're really good with a solder you can try to re-solder it. If not, it's about as cheap to buy a new unit as it is to buy the board. Good luck.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

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