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Model # FPHS2699KFO not cooling, freezer light says 5y and frig light says ES

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 5,323 Answers

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ






Posted on Apr 11, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: freezer works like frig-freezer lite only one working

ch the fan in the frige feel it if is blowing air .or is slow. you need to replace the fan moter.

Posted on Feb 06, 2008

capsman
  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: freezer works but frig is not cooling

I don't know this particular frig, but evidently the defroster doesn't work. Frost buildup has blocked the flow of cold air.

There is a defrost timer, under the frig, accessible from the front. You can turn it with a screw driver. Turn it till you hear a click. If the timer hasn't been turning, that should turn on the defroster, a heating element nested among the freezer coils. Wait half an hour and if it is defrosting, water should be dripping into the drip pan underneath the frig. If so, then replace the defrost timer and you're good to go.

If that doesn't make it defrost, then the problem is probably the defrost thermostat, in with the freezer coils. When the frig defrosts, the defrost heater stays on until the defrost thermostat gets warm. It should be open circuit while warm. But if it is open circuit while cold, it is bad and is the cause of your defrost problem.

If you open up the freezer coils, use a hair dryer to defrost. That is safer than hot water.

Hope you can fix it.

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

herodog909
  • 98 Answers

SOURCE: Frig will not cool

I had a similar problem. One thing that I need to know is is it cooling at all? If everything is operating, but no cooling occurs, you may have a bad board. This controls all of the components. Getting it replaced could be pretty pricey. Good luck, and please rate.

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator and freezer not cooling

sound like side by side check compressor for starting up check defrost timer

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: my frig is running but not cooling - frig is 50

I can help you diagnose the problems with your GE. Several things can cause these symptoms. All you need is a voltage meter patience and a want to, to repair and do it better than a paid technician. In most cases with the PSS26MSRSS the defrost heater is the cause for this. Look into rear of your freezer and back wall. Is Ice or frost building on rear wall? If yes unplug and prepair to remove contents in freezer compartment. Remove rear panel in freezer and use hair dryer to defrost ice until the defrost heater is visible. BRB , Sea Breeze

Posted on Jan 23, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the quick help - yes frost on back wall. Once I unload and defrost should I then take out defrost thermostat? "

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